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Discussion Starter #461
Wait! Stop! Since you're at it, you should build 2, then bill me for 1. I like where this is going. The studs are a nice idea for helping with that godawful manifold install. Honestly the removal and install of the manifolds with the motor in the Jeep is the hardest part of a head swap or gasket replacement. Pretty sure my neighbors learned some new phrases while I was doing mine. Are you concerned about the studs in the long-term future? Corrosion and either snapping or backing out? Probably nothing to worry about but studs and I don't get along real well.
Lol, might be awhile til I get the second one done!

And I'm not concerned about them backing out at all, I put red thread lock on, it has served me well. These studs also have an Allen head machined into the end so you can actually get them screwed in tight. I'm not sure how they'll do with corrosion, being titanium I figured they'd do quite well against it, and titaniun is stronger than steel anyway, so breakage shouldn't be an issue.

I'll probably check everything after its together and has been run for a few hundred miles, retorque all hardware etc etc.

Also, I ordered a bunch of other hardware last night for the jeep. I found that ARP makes flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts... I could have reused the old hardware when I remove the engine, but I decided that it would be better to have new anyway due to the age of the hardware. Also ordered those vacuum lines from HPSI.

Today ill set up my parts washer and get the hardware and manifold decreased. I'm not sure if I wanna sandblast the IM yet, depends on how it looks after the degreasing.
 

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I settled on wirebrushing mine after chemical washes failed. Blasting the nooks and crannies was my plan, but I got lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #463
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Combination of parts washer and wire brushing at the same time. I used simple green for reasons. This turned out pretty nice, now I'm going to look for a blast cabinet, I dont want to blast things out in my yard and make a mess.

All of my bolts came out pretty clean too, they soaked in the simple green for quite awhile while I brushed the manifold down.
 

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Do you have a wire cup brush on a 4.5" angle grinder? That made a huge difference in mine
 

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Discussion Starter #465
Do you have a wire cup brush on a 4.5" angle grinder? That made a huge difference in mine
I do, I may give that a go before buying more equipment. Seems like a better route in the short and long term anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #466
One thing that I have noticed about my jeep, after having it all these years, is that my windshield fram is starting to get rusty. Rusty enough to where it has started to leak water after a new windshield replacement a few years ago, which has cracked recently, i believe after a wheeling trip. I'm slightly concerned because I know the repair can become extensive, especially when one starts digging into the issue and finds out what actually lies beneath the surface. Although, I have peeled back the moulding around the windshield hand have stabbed at it a little and it seems solid.

Might be one of those repairs I take on after I get the pole barn built. I'm a little apprehensive about doing all this work to the jeep right now cause of it, but im too far invested at this point to turn back now. When I find out more on that, ill post in here as I progress.
 

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A little buzz box flux core welder will make easy work of that kinda thing. You may be able to get away with some silicon to seal it up till you get the barn built, then you can work in it there.
 

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Another thing to consider is rust converter. There is some that turns it hard and paintable. It is fixable, just will take some work
 

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Discussion Starter #469
I've got myself a decent mig welder by Hobart, the ironman 230 model. I've got it dialed in nicely so that I can do heavy steel or sheet metal well. So when the time comes, hopefully its only a good cleaning and the rust converter, but if not, ill wepd up whatever it may take.

In the short term I may get the windshield silicone cause I am tired of the puddles in the jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter #470
I also got the opportunity to drive the jeep around after installing the lock rite locker..... man is that thing rude now. Turns at speed aren't bad, but turning from a stop sucks now, lol. It adds a new element to driving the jeep now, and i will definitely not be driving it like that in the winter. I'd almost rip apart the cover again and swap the spider gears back in to drive in the winter if i have to.
 

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Hobart! Fukin Mint!

I have spartans front and rear. turn slightly downhill into a stop, and the front bangs hard and thats in 2wd.. My rear used to make lots of racket. but after a few hundred miles, the sharp edges of the teeth get knocked off and it behaves much better. Takes a little getting used to. But drive it on dry and wet roads so you feel how it behaves, then you'll drive it accordingly and it will be second nature. My T-case is a NP-242. I have 2hi, 4hi part time 4hi full time, and 4lo. The t-case has a built in open diff when in 4hi full time. Shift to 4lo or 4 hi part time, and the t-case diff acts like a locker and locks the front and rear drive shafts. That is why it tells you in the manual DO NOT OPERATE 4Hi Part Time or 4lo on dry surfaces. And it works, trust me.
 

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Hmmmmm. I have this Spartan locker for my front end. My LOKKAs are well behaved. Might need to rethink this.
 

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Discussion Starter #473
Hobart! Fukin Mint!

I have spartans front and rear. turn slightly downhill into a stop, and the front bangs hard and thats in 2wd.. My rear used to make lots of racket. but after a few hundred miles, the sharp edges of the teeth get knocked off and it behaves much better. Takes a little getting used to. But drive it on dry and wet roads so you feel how it behaves, then you'll drive it accordingly and it will be second nature. My T-case is a NP-242. I have 2hi, 4hi part time 4hi full time, and 4lo. The t-case has a built in open diff when in 4hi full time. Shift to 4lo or 4 hi part time, and the t-case diff acts like a locker and locks the front and rear drive shafts. That is why it tells you in the manual DO NOT OPERATE 4Hi Part Time or 4lo on dry surfaces. And it works, trust me.
I've got some off brand locker for the front end, but it behaves really nicely, I dont even know its there until I slap it in 4wd, the banging in 2wd would get me. Ill see what happens with the rear, I get some banging and bucking when I give her some gas in the tight corners now. I'm not even remotely worried about it offroad, other than it will help out a lot.

I'm going on a little excursion tomorrow, so I'll see how well it all does. Don't know if I can call it wheelint yet, a lot of these people here just hit dirt roads and call it wheeling, lol.
 

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My spartan rear is great, but I need to watch the skinny pedal in snow and ice. On dry pavement from a stop I tend to chirp the tires. As for clanging and banging its much better after break-in, and it clicks in parking lots and such.
 

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Discussion Starter #475
After a day of driving around, the locker in the rear has loosened up quite a bit. When I turn the wheels, not full lock, it doesn't buck the jeep when I give it gas now from a stop now. It definitely needed to wear in a little bit, but it is much better now and I am greatly satisfied with its performance offroad. I had the chance to test it out in some mud puddles in 2wd, and it was some thick, sticky mud too.
 

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Discussion Starter #476
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Some progress! This makes me happy to see the engine like this. The internals have been exposed for far too long, though they are fine, ie no corrosion at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #478
Small progress update on the engine.
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Finally got out back and took time to tape things off so I can paint. I sprayed the block down with brake clean to give it a good decreasing, wipe and wired brushed anything that may have been loose, then sprayed it one more time and allowed it to dry. While it was drying, I taped everything and plugged any bolt bosses, plug bores, and oil holes with tape and or shop rags. Covered everything else that didnt need to be painted with seranwrap and tape. One coat on tonight, I'll put one more on another day that I find time.

As of right now, I believe i have every part I need to complete the swap, now I just need some extra hands to help out with stuff when the time comes. Sounds like I'll have my brother and a good buddy.
 

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Discussion Starter #479
A side note, I talked to an amish guy near me to get a quote for a pole barn. Looking to buikd a 40x50 w/14' walls, enough room to have a lift, break room and plenty of floor space to do other miscellaneous stuff. Rough estimate was $18k with tin roof and tin siding. He says he can also do concrete, qaiting back for the full quote for everything. But for NY, that's not a bad price at all. Can't wait to make a move on this project. I'm tired of working out of a conex and shed with no power.
 

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Phukin mint!
That's a hell of a price. And they would probably have it built inn a week.
 
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