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Discussion Starter #481
And some more progress.
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Put second coat of engine paint on. Yea, its flat black, but I like it. Imagine when oil leaks finally develop, itll be shiny on those parts and easily detectable.

So now the other question I have....
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To paint? Or not to paint? That is the question.

Its still a little poopy in the corners, but mostly not bad at all. Is it worth it? I have a silver engine paint that I used on the water pump, which is brand new... should have put some paint on the timing cover, but oh well, its raw aluminum and will be mostly covered anyway. I will paint the thermostat housing when I get that. I need to remove the oil filter adapter I have off my other extra block and clean that up/paint it as well as the oil pressure sensor adapter.

I would also like to source a new dust shield for the manual transmission, but it doesn't seem likely that I'll find one so I'll have to snag it off the old engine when that gets pulled, meaning I'll have to wait to install the new flywheel and clutch system when the time comes.

Other than those items, the block is ready to drop in now.
 

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Well if you're painting everything else....go ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter #483
You convinced me. I dont think it'd look too bad after paints on it.

I just need to go through a checklist to make sure that I do in fact have everything. I may replace some sensors as I go, not sure yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #485
Its a little more dull than raw aluminum. I already painted the water pump with it, and it looks decent. I'll hit the thermostat housing with it as well.
 

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I like it too. I went with the raw look on everything, but as long as the silvery parts are silver and match, its all good. Looks cleaner than the raw look thats for sure. I don't think I asked before: is that High Temp paint?
 

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Discussion Starter #490
I like it too. I went with the raw look on everything, but as long as the silvery parts are silver and match, its all good. Looks cleaner than the raw look thats for sure. I don't think I asked before: is that High Temp paint?
It is high temp paint. My only hope is that it doesn't peel off like any other rattle can paint ive used before has.
 

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Discussion Starter #491
So now there are only a few more odds n ends left that I need to get like spark plugs,new thermostat housing, a few sensors that I'm likely missing.

I'll probably make a punch list for the swap, this way I'll greatly reduce the lack of a necessary item.
 

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Discussion Starter #492
Today I had the opportunity to test the true capability of my jeep with the added front and rear lockers. What a difference they make.... as you can see, I was in some really off camber positions and things were getting really tippy, lol. This place is a close 1 hour away from me, which is nice. A guy brought a brand new gladiator to this and didn't even fret putting some dings on it. He took it through all the same trails I went down and ended up sliding off a few large rocks(boulders) and running his rock slider down one.
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I'm also fairly certain that I became a crowd favorite, they enjoyed my presence there as I didnt mind sending the jeep through some of their gnarly trails that they had. Theyre doing another ride in another 3 weeks, and were hoping I'd come back, dont twist my arm alright!? Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #494
Veddy nice!
Lockers. Are indeed 1 of the best mods.
The only thing I'd like to change at this point is having hydro assist. Cause trying to get the jeep to steer even offroad in some of the situations I was in was difficult.

It makes really want to get the axles built and get the selectable lockers in there. There are many projects id like to get done on this jeep, but I have to wait until i have the garage to really dig into some of these projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #495
Small progress update.
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I have the plugs installed, wump installed, thermostat housing installed along with thermostat in there as well. Installed the oil pressure sensor adapter and ops and also threaded the portion for the oil filter into the block. Im going to omit the oil filter adapter for reasons, mainly one less item to leak, which they always do. Ill have to get a shorter filter in order to fit between the engine and frame, but no big deal for me. It will still filter.

Now I need to acquire things to be able to lift the engine high enough and be able to roll on dirt or other non concrete surfaces. Ive though of a tripod setup to lift the engine out and push the jeep back, then i thought of just buying that damn harbor freight gantry crane, which I'm really hesitant about since they've had issues with other simpler, critical components.....
 

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check craigslist for local gantry cranes. Im watching a couple here right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #498 (Edited)
Engine swap day is getting close, this Saturday. Got my buddy to pick up my new gantry since its on the other side of the state, and he'll be heading out this way Friday. We will build that Friday night, and Saturday we swap the engine.
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I fitted up the late model manifold on the head and, with a heads up from a member on another forum, realized that there would be interference between intake and exhaust manifold due to the doug thorley header that I got. They don't play nice, so I had to clearance the intake in the area over exhaust runner 4. There's plenty of meat in that region, but I wanted to have at least a 1/4" clearance and realized quickly that i went too far and broke through the casting. I had some aluminum brazing rods that act like solder and tried to plug the hole a few times, I think the third attempt got it good and it actually adhered to the surface quite well... problem is I don't trust it because the patch is still right on top of the runner with minimal clearance, and the stuff melts at 730° F. I dont need that hole opening up and grenading my new engine, so I'll have to stick with the stock intake manifold for now. I'll wait til I get a good TIG welder and then get into some modification of that manifold to make it work better for the header that I have.

Other issue I have is indexing the distributor since I have an aftermarket cam with 3° advance. In not sure if my problem lies with that or some other info that I've found on another forum. But here it is, properly indexed distributor and engine on TDC compression stroke cyl #1 and this is what I get....
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So the hold down flange is just misaligned with the bore in the block. Not sure if its cause of the cam advance or....

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Because this cam gear is off 180° from where its supposed to be. According to another member from another forum in my research, I have found that when the hold down flange is on the left side in the photo, the roll pin is supposed to fall in between the gear teeth, and the right side the roll pin should fall at the center of the tooth.

When I drop the distributor in the block one tooth retarded, it falls just on the other side of the bore in the block also.

My two options, remove roll pin and rotate gear 180° and then drop in or cut flange off body and use hold down clamp and bolt it down tightly to ensure distributor doesn't move at all. I think I'll opt to rotate the gear first before cutting and see. Cause my brains telling me that correcting the gear misalignment will allow proper indexing and alignment with the block bore so as not to cut at all, this ensuring that nothing moves when it shouldn't.

Link for reference on distributor cam gear alignment, see post #6 and tell me what you think....

 

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Discussion Starter #499
Hwell, the swap will not be happening this saturday due to work. Darn wind had to blow down a bunch a trees and kill everyone's power out here. So now it seems like I'll be working through the weekend now. Ah damn.... guess I'll wait til there's another decent weekend.
 

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Bummer, but work pays for the parts, so you better do that lol.
 
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