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Discussion Starter #501
Bummer, but work pays for the parts, so you better do that lol.
It'll also pay for the pole barn im hopefully going to be able to build i nthe spring time. All depends on the village and whether they let me build the 40x50 I want.
 

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Discussion Starter #502
Well, I started getting into the swap after all. I removed practically all the accessories already and hardware. I just have the bellhousing bolts left to remove. I had a few hours to start pulling everything yesterday, also includes the time it took to build the gantry crane, which wasn't long anyway. It went to use right away since I had to move the new block down to the worksite. It currently sits outside under a tarp until i can get the old out and new in. I had some help with the work, but from newbies to mechanics.

Pics to come tomorrow night, I haven't taken any yet, but this is shade tree mechanics at its best! Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #503
Sorry for the delay, things at work got a little f***ery. Ended up driving over 1-1/2 hrs to work each morning and it got to me good. Also, things got a little spicy at work. But here are some pics work, and work at home.
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Discussion Starter #504
Almost forgot to mention that I had to break out an easy out to remove an engine mount bolt.... it had a torque bit head onto it...... but hey, at least the easy out worked. First time that worked ever.
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I would have taken more pics, but my phone died, got the new engine all set with the accessory brackets and pulleys. Tomorrow ill put the dist shield on and mount the new flywheel and pressure plate, then ill drop the engine in the jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter #505
Fixed my distributor issue.
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Properly indexed and lines up with the bolt hole in the block, no cutting necessary. I used a 3/16" punch, hammer and bench vice to make it possible. Just needed to punch this roll pin out.
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And rotate this gear around 180°, and reinstall pin.
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I have the new engine dropped in right now, but can across a hiccup that will require me to remove it again. Turns out there's a bushing in the crankshagt bore that I needed,,not just the pilot bearing. So thats on order.

I had to mock up a bunch of things anyway, so its not wasted effort to gmget the engine in now, like I had to cut down the firewall in order to clear the valve cover, I need to get a new hood, cause there isn't enough clearance for the valve cover eirher, so i either need to modify mine or buy a cowl hood. I also needed to get the engine in with exhaust manifold on to cut the downpipe to length in order to weld the downpipe adapter on. On that same day I'll also be installing the bung for the wideband.
 

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Veddy nice. Glad that fixed the dizzy. Those can be a real pain.
I Didn't know HF sold gantry cranes. How would you rate it? It looks pretty beefy
 

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Discussion Starter #508
Veddy nice. Glad that fixed the dizzy. Those can be a real pain.
I Didn't know HF sold gantry cranes. How would you rate it? It looks pretty beefy
I'm hovering between a 6 and a 7 for the gantry crane on the quality, but as far as the actual functionality, I'd give it an 8. They could have used a heavier i beam to bump up the weight rating. Its a 1 ton so I suppose it isn't too terrible, buy the supports and casters seem like they could handle more weight.
 

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Glad to see you making progress. Im loving the channel rails for the gantry to roll on. Smart! I am looking for a gantry too, be nice to have when running a one man show. And make loading/unloading junk scores easier!
 

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Discussion Starter #510 (Edited)
Glad to see you making progress. Im loving the channel rails for the gantry to roll on. Smart! I am looking for a gantry too, be nice to have when running a one man show. And make loading/unloading junk scores easier!
Thanks for the compliments took me a minute to remember I had that laying around, but I did struggle with trying to run it on the wood on my own before I figured I had to have had a better way. The effort to lay out the wood was not wasted either, as it was used to level the channel out. The trolley never rolled one way or the other, so it worked out nicely.

Minor update, I ordered the hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator, also ordered an apexi afc neo(a piggy back fuel controller) to help adjust the fuel curve, it gives 16 points for adjustment at specific rpms, and will work great with the obd1 system in my jeep. Having the wideband installed will get me right where I need to be with fuel pressure and fuel trims. Essentially you can tune your obd1 system to run better with all the mods.
 

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I got to admit. Your last paragraph has me scratching my head. Care to elaborate?
 

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Discussion Starter #513
I'm about to learn myself on some things!
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Just kidding, there are only 7 wires to hook up, two of which this will completely control a sensor for, the MAP sensor that is. This thing is really just an advanced map voltage adjuster, but it has the added bonus of allowing me to set fuel control at 16 different points along the rpm range of my choosing. So as stated before, ill be using the wideband sensor to set the fuel trim at 260 rpm intervals beyond 1,000 rpms. Eventually. Whenever I get the jeep running and moving again.. hopefully sooner than later. Depending on weather. And work. And the wife.... and baby.
 
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