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Discussion Starter #561
Ordered a new rms, I'll get to that once I work on the front axle, im just going to drop both axles to regear then, while also addressing other issues I have with the jeep, ie rear saggy springs and the leaky rms. The axles themselves also were in need of work, leaky pinion seals, so I guess this is just the expensive way of replacing worn out seals, lol.

Pics to follow in the coming week. Just spent some time cleaning out the 20ft conex I had in my yard to get it gone, have a few more things to move out of ut yet, but those items will be going to a different location. I fit as much junk as I could in my shed, had to make sure I have the most needed items such as welder and press, as well as the axle stand I built.

Going to be picking up a 9000w generator later on to power some of the equipment in the shed for the short term, really need it for the house when I disconnect power to upgrade the service wire from the pole. It will help me get done some of the much needed work to the jeep to have it ready by summer time. I want to wheel like crazy this year...... as much as the wifey will let me, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #562
Almost forgot to add picture of the clean out work I did
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There was a ton more junk in here than this, my back aches after moving it all if that dont tell ya nothing.

The rest goes to my brothers house this weekend hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #563
Just put in an order for chromoly axleshafts for de front through RMS, the dude is great to work with, he was willing to price match another competitor when I asked him about it. If you need any axle parts at all, I'd recommend going through Ron's machining service.

Im going to start work this coming weekend and can't wait to dive in. I got to thinking about beefing up the diff covers, thought about buying some, but for 150 a piece ill pass. I have a ton of steel and can build a guard for the front and rear. I have a torch to cut with and a grinder to clean edges, then the welder is now operational as well.
20210308_204632.jpg

A view of my humble workshop for now, lol. I won't add anything else til I come back with some progress. Oh yea, cant wait!
 

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Solid brand covers are $65 each
 

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Always remember, your time is worth something, consider how much time it will take to fabricate something verses just buying it pre-made. this doesn't apply for everything, just the few things that are better off bought. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #567
They never popped up on my radar when I looked. I found em for 80 a piece from poly performance.. where you finding them for 65?
Said screw it and ordered those covers. Not a bad price for no messing around. Not sure when I'll have them, but surely they'll be here before I finish one axle at least.
 

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I think they are usually $65 on their direct website.
 

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Discussion Starter #569
I think they are usually $65 on their direct website.
Sweet, ended up costing the same after shipping was tacked on the cost from solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #570
I've got all parts together, yet sadly, I think I'm going to need my jeep to pull a truck up to this conex I have out back so they can get it gone. Thatll be this Friday since I couldn't get it gone last Friday with work and what not. Its all good, we got some nice weather coming up, itll make working out in the cold easier when its 50 instead of 30. Ill gets some pics when I get started.
 

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Discussion Starter #571
So it begins

















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No more conex ^
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Brandy new oil from this summer...... has a lot of metal flake in it..
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The reasoning...... highly polished gears.... wondering if the added load from the locker is what caused that?? Great time for a rebuild I suppose....
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This is where I ended for the night. Tomorrow is going to be a busy day for me, so ill get back to this on Sunday. More pics to come.
 

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Discussion Starter #572
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This is a better photo of the pinion and how much the surface has been polished, not as blurry as the one up top
 

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Discussion Starter #573
Getting some things torn down
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Found a lot of metal flake built up in these crevices, unbelievable how much I found.
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This is one of the best tools I own for rebuilding difs.
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The bearing in the photos was new over the summer, so using the bearing puller saved it and the shim even, so now I'll have a setup bearing to use and extra shims if I need. I love that I know I can remove bearings without destroying them. Love having the right tools. I need to remove the inner pinion bearing still, then its time to do some crazy math..... last time I did a regear that math got me really close on the first try and subsequent setups were minimized and got a great pattern.

More photos tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #574
Silly me, forgot that the pinion gets shimmed underneath the inner race, doh! Never made a setup race and installed the baffle.... so now I've got a new baffle on the way. Son of a *. Im going to set everything up anyway, gota see what pattern reveals first.
 

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Discussion Starter #575
First pattern, BL is at .009", od like it to be tighter, but my carrier preload is really high, so I'm going to take things apart anyway.
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Drive side, id call that perfect
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And the coast.

I am going to come back out and adjust after dinner. Well see what the second pattern yields after that. I dont think I'm going to remove the pinion at all, I see no reason to honestly.

Unless you guys see something I dont.
 

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Discussion Starter #576
Second pattern after adjusting carrier shims for preload. Removed .003" from each side, calculated carrier preload at 39-41 in/lbs. BL went to .010", drive pattern shifted slightly toward toe, coast slightly toward heel.
20210322_212525.jpg

Drive side
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Coast side. So what im going to do is shift .006" to the ring gear side from NRG side. Im firm in that the pinion depth is set to where it needs to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #577
Nailed down bearing preload, just need to dial in the back lash now. Back lash is currently .008", the pattern is very similar to the first one, just more broad across the ring gear now. More to come tomorrow.
 

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Getting some things torn down
Found a lot of metal flake built up in these crevices, unbelievable how much I found.
This is one of the best tools I own for rebuilding difs.
View attachment 229081

I wish I had one of those last year. That and an axle stand. Having to cut and carefully cold chiesel bearings off is nerve racking. I just didn't have the extra $250 for the puller, but I almost justified the purchase. Wishing I had now. I gotta wierd vibration in my front D30, and I don't know what I am gonna see in there.

Everything's looking good, bud... (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #579
Backlash at .006"-.007" coast side
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Drive side
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I like how the drive side looks, not so impressed with coast though. May have to adjust pinion depth after all. May be too deep right now.

Anyone got anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #580 (Edited)
Alright, so I moved the pinion out by .008" and this is the result i got. Much better, but will end up moving it more yet, probably .003". Ended up making setup inner race and outer bearing for pinion cause it suckes to take that apart. New baffle on the way still....
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So I'm running into another problem, now I will mention it since I tried to eliminate it while I had the carrier out. I have .004" runout on the ring gear, no bueno, it alters my BL for a 1/4 of the ring gear to .009" while the rest of its at .006"

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This set of photos in this post is from the same setup. But there's a noticeable difference in the coast patterns on different parts of the ring gear, due to the run out.

I have taken a flat stone to it to try to remove any potential burrs from both surfaces and cleaned them. The carrier has less than .001" runout, so theres an issue with the mating surface between the two, just going to have to take it apart and clean some more. I even tried rotating the ring gear on carrier to see if that would help, I think it made it worse????

***Edit: I lied, bottom two photos are last nights last setup. The top two are from today. So its much better, just need to get the runout issue sorted out.
 
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