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Looking into changing the gearing in my XJ since I'd like to go with 33" tires. Needing some info. Will I need a new carrier going from 3.55's to 4.56 gears on both a Dana 30 and a Chrysler 8.25" Any other parts I'd need other than the obvious one's like an install kit?

Planning on pulling a HP axle out of a XJ at the Pick a Part this spring and totally rebuilding it. If money will allow I'd like to also go with a Power Trax, or a Lockrite in the rear axle. Any real problems with either of these two setups?:confused:
 

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No. Just make sure to get a 29 spline 8.25.

And, yes you will nee a new carrier for the dana 30
 

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Looking into changing the gearing in my XJ since I'd like to go with 33" tires. Needing some info. Will I need a new carrier going from 3.55's to 4.56 gears on both a Dana 30 and a Chrysler 8.25" Any other parts I'd need other than the obvious one's like an install kit?

Planning on pulling a HP axle out of a XJ at the Pick a Part this spring and totally rebuilding it. If money will allow I'd like to also go with a Power Trax, or a Lockrite in the rear axle. Any real problems with either of these two setups?:confused:
I did the 4:56 gearing for my HP D30 and C8.25 (1998 vintage). As you have already seen yes you will need a new carrier for the D30. You will need a special tool for the C8.25. To adust the side "i can't remember what it is called" nuts for a lack of a better term.

I bought master overhaul kits for both diffs. I also had the outter bearings replaced on the C8.25. I used Royal Purple front and back, even for the break in.

There is only two things I would recommend.

1) Keep an eye open for a D44 with 4:56 already installed. (pretty rare I know)
2) You might want to consider a locker that you can engage and disengage. I personally want to go with the ARB air lockers.

I like the idea of having open diffs until I want them locked. Since I have a NP242 I was going to go with an air locker up front and a powertrax in the back, but after reviewing a few things, it seemed the best all around to have air lockers front and back. Just my 2 cents.

Oh I want to get the 30 spline ARB with chrome molly 30 spline axels for the D30.
 

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Looking into changing the gearing in my XJ since I'd like to go with 33" tires. Needing some info. Will I need a new carrier going from 3.55's to 4.56 gears on both a Dana 30 and a Chrysler 8.25" Any other parts I'd need other than the obvious one's like an install kit?

Planning on pulling a HP axle out of a XJ at the Pick a Part this spring and totally rebuilding it. If money will allow I'd like to also go with a Power Trax, or a Lockrite in the rear axle. Any real problems with either of these two setups?:confused:
Just remember there's no lockright for the 8.25 29 spline but there is one for the 27 spline. If you prefer the lockright, you can just get the aussie locker. Same thing, cheaper, and made for the 29-er. (or pay a bit more $$ for the no-slip)
 

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4.56 gears will be perfect with 33's. As for finding a D44 with 4.56's, although a great idea, and will save you alot of time, it's like looking for a needle in a haystack... especially if you're looking for an XJ D44 that's already geared (and possibly locked). Any D44 that is geared and locked will cost you a small fortune because of their rarity.

I'd say to work with the 8.25 since it'll be easier to find. I personally am a fan of a D44, but beggars can't be choosers.

As for Mud's advice, I agree and disagree. ARB's are a great option, and I long to have them one day as well. Like Mud, I also have the NP242, so a selectable is a must in my Dana 30 because I like to use the Full-Time option quite often.

However, I'd have to disagree with wanting selectable front and rear. Right now I have a Powertrax No Slip in the rear, and I actually like it's on road and off road behavior, even in inclement weather. Granted it is a bit more difficult to control the rear offroad because you have no option of when it engages since it's an autolocker, but so far I have no complaints. The No-Slip is a lunchbox locker so it's only replacing the Spider Gears, and doesn't require a different carrier unlike an ARB. Also, like Mud mentioned, cost is always an issue with the ARB's, as they are quite pricey.

Are you planning on doing the gear swaps yourself? If you are, and don't have experience doing it, read up on "how-to's". It's nothing that you can't do yourself, but it's something that you want done right, so some research and learning will go a long way.
 

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Don't forget that Mopar released the 44's for the Rubicon as complete assemblies from rotor to rotor w/calipers and 4.56 and electric lockers front and rear. for about $1300 each end. New 4.56, 44, lockers, disc brake conversion, all cheaper than a jy and parts.
 

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Don't forget that Mopar released the 44's for the Rubicon as complete assemblies from rotor to rotor w/calipers and 4.56 and electric lockers front and rear. for about $1300 each end. New 4.56, 44, lockers, disc brake conversion, all cheaper than a jy and parts.
If you are talking about the JK axles, they come with 4.10 gears unless something has changed.

Also they are wider than XJ axles which is a good thing for most builds but not if you weren't planning on it.
 

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If you are talking about the JK axles, they come with 4.10 gears unless something has changed.

Also they are wider than XJ axles which is a good thing for most builds but not if you weren't planning on it.
Correct me if I am wrong but arent the brackets a bit off compared to the XJ axle brackets?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
$1300 for a COMPLETE axle??? With lockers???? I couldn't buy a new/rebuilt HP Dana 30 for that....or could I? Keep in mind I'm only wanting to replace the FRONT axle. The 8.25 in the rear is fine for my needs.

Are these a bolt in option for the XJ front axle? Or will they require additional modification?
 

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4.56 gears will be perfect with 33's. As for finding a D44 with 4.56's, although a great idea, and will save you alot of time, it's like looking for a needle in a haystack... especially if you're looking for an XJ D44 that's already geared (and possibly locked). Any D44 that is geared and locked will cost you a small fortune because of their rarity.

I'd say to work with the 8.25 since it'll be easier to find. I personally am a fan of a D44, but beggars can't be choosers.

As for Mud's advice, I agree and disagree. ARB's are a great option, and I long to have them one day as well. Like Mud, I also have the NP242, so a selectable is a must in my Dana 30 because I like to use the Full-Time option quite often.

However, I'd have to disagree with wanting selectable front and rear. Right now I have a Powertrax No Slip in the rear, and I actually like it's on road and off road behavior, even in inclement weather. Granted it is a bit more difficult to control the rear offroad because you have no option of when it engages since it's an autolocker, but so far I have no complaints. The No-Slip is a lunchbox locker so it's only replacing the Spider Gears, and doesn't require a different carrier unlike an ARB. Also, like Mud mentioned, cost is always an issue with the ARB's, as they are quite pricey.

Are you planning on doing the gear swaps yourself? If you are, and don't have experience doing it, read up on "how-to's". It's nothing that you can't do yourself, but it's something that you want done right, so some research and learning will go a long way.
Well Powertrax noslip was my first choice for the C8.25. The price was much better, plus the trouble and cost of installation was better, however you cannot control the locking. I mean I read that on ice you want your diffs open. We don't have that much ICE in Houston, but when we do it gets bad. I figured with the selectable lockers I'd be set up for anything.
 

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$1300 for a COMPLETE axle??? With lockers???? I couldn't buy a new/rebuilt HP Dana 30 for that....or could I? Keep in mind I'm only wanting to replace the FRONT axle. The 8.25 in the rear is fine for my needs.

Are these a bolt in option for the XJ front axle? Or will they require additional modification?
You probably could find a rebuilt d30 for that if you look on CL long enough.
 

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Correct me if I am wrong but arent the brackets a bit off compared to the XJ axle brackets?
$1300 for a COMPLETE axle??? With lockers???? I couldn't buy a new/rebuilt HP Dana 30 for that....or could I? Keep in mind I'm only wanting to replace the FRONT axle. The 8.25 in the rear is fine for my needs.

Are these a bolt in option for the XJ front axle? Or will they require additional modification?
The control arm mounts are in a "workable" location up front, but the coil buckets need to be moved. Mopar released the J8 rear 60s as well, i think its $2800.
 

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$1300 for a COMPLETE axle??? With lockers???? I couldn't buy a new/rebuilt HP Dana 30 for that....or could I? Keep in mind I'm only wanting to replace the FRONT axle. The 8.25 in the rear is fine for my needs.

Are these a bolt in option for the XJ front axle? Or will they require additional modification?
Yes, that's the price for a complete axle, with high-steer, bigger brakes, bigger shafts, bigger u-joints, bigger ring and pinion, electric locker, and 4.10 gears. Like some of the other guys mentioned though, it'll require a bit of work (welding) to install under an XJ. It's also a lot wider than the stock XJ axles and has a different wheel bolt pattern, so it really doesn't make a lot of sense to do a JK front axle unless you're also planning a JK rear axle.

And actually, the price is more like $1500 for the front. The rear is about $1300 though, and it comes with big disc brakes, big 32-spline shafts, electric locker, and 4.10 gears. Like the front though, it'll require a bit of cutting and welding work to install under an XJ.
 

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Ok, so i just ordered 4.56's for my dana 30, im trying to find a new carrier for it now. Are there different brands out there? One possibly stronger than another? I can find them on e-bay for about 70$ after shipping. Where did everyone else order theres from?
 

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There are only Dana Parts for this unless you get a locker or LSD
 

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I know there is some special 4-series carrier on e-bay .... i have found a yukon carrier also. I guess what im wondering is... is there a heavy duty replacement carrier? I thought about looking into cryo treating anything i get. I thought i heard of a couple instances where auto lockers have cracked and broke some carriers, so i want to make sure i dont run into this problem.
 

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Cryo treating would work the best for that application
 

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I know there is some special 4-series carrier on e-bay .... i have found a yukon carrier also. I guess what im wondering is... is there a heavy duty replacement carrier? I thought about looking into cryo treating anything i get. I thought i heard of a couple instances where auto lockers have cracked and broke some carriers, so i want to make sure i dont run into this problem.
There is not necessarily a HD carrier other then a locker. With carriers you get what you pay for. If one is stronger than another its probably not going to be by much.
 
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