Been alot of that lately...lol...and when you find cell#2 ask him if he's seen any of mine please.....
Here is my write-up on my "Hack n Tap" Slip yoke eliminator.now you have kinda got me thinking of going in a different direction.
how much for a slip yoke eliminator and how hard is it to install?
i have stayed at a holiday in express so do i qualify for this task?
seriously, i did pick up my front drive shaft and think, i wounder if this would work. then my next thought was, you idiot their is no way to bolt it to the t case
you say that the drive shaft will get shorter as you lift.As counterintuitive as it sounds, the drive shaft will actually get shorter as you lift. I'm on a AW4 (auto) NP 242 T-Case with a hack n tap Slip yoke eliminator and a "front" drive shaft in the rear (~31.5" yoke to yoke) mounted to a C8.25 diff.
With me, however I also take a person by the amount of time they have been spot on So if you say it I believe it. I also have a very curious mind. I find things interesting and will think about them till I can understand them.I'm glad you are thinking and not just believing everything you hear. Because the leaf spring pivots at the front. The pinion swings toward the front as it goes down. I know it took me a while to grasp this. And fwiw, t-case drops are a bad idea. They push the fan closer toward the rad and put the engine mounts on a bind.
Also, a SYE is designed to eliminate driveline vibs and enable you to run a double cardan drive shaft. Vibs will begin to develop after about 3" of lift so they are not always necessary. As with all jeeps, ymmv! ?