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It may be possible, but with all the extra sensors you'd have to wire in, you'd probably save money buying a ZJ with the piece already installed. Not being facetious at all- it's a lot of wiring, sensors, new fluid bottles, the LOM, all kinds of things that you'd need to cross-check the diagrams to make sure it'd even cross over.

Of course, if someone ELSE is willing to spend the money to see if it's doable, I wouldn't complain...
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
I think I may have a lead on the flasher buzzing problem.



:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

I was talking to my dad this morning about the odd turn signal problem I have been having in the Jeep. I have had the problem for as long as I can remember having the Jeep; Seven plus years...

I had put the current 'heavy duty' flasher in the Jeep about a month after I bought the ol' battle axe. The turn signal on the drivers side rear acts up every now and again like the bulb has burnt out in it. I have gone through a ton of bulbs over the years. As of about a year ago, the flasher will flash like the bulb is burnt out, but then it will straighten itself out while the switch is still actuated. i.e. the flasher changes in mid turn and every thing is fine until the wheel straightens out and the flasher turns off.

So, like you, I am thinking there is an inconsistent ground or some kind of funky short circuit going on in my rear driver's side turn signal socket. After today I am not 100% sure.

So, I am talking to my dad about it today because I am going to work on it tonight after work, and try to solve the situation. He suggested that I should start out by just buying a new flasher and seeing if that helps or solves the problem outright. So, I go to Vatozone just before work to get some red LED's for the instrument panel, some Dielectric grease for a 703 injector swap later this week, and a new flasher.

I pick out the flasher by the number and formation of the connections on the bottom of the relay. However, wanting to be sure about it, I go up to the counter to see if I have the correct flasher and BOOM... $50.00 [email protected]&!ing flasher!! :eek:

I was flabbergasted, and was speechless for a few minutes, and then things started to make sense about the VIC conversion and that annoying a$$ buzzing when the VIC is connected to the multi-switch.

Vatozone Website said:
The Novita EP39 is an electronic turn signal and hazard warning flasher that operates at 12 V. The EP39 is an application specific flasher that fits the 1994-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee which has specific requirements through the Vehicle Information System. The EP39 is LED compatible, features towing capability and is proudly assembled in the U.S.A. by Novita Technologies.
I am going to still open her up tonight and look for a bad ground somewhere. Needless to say, I will be going to the local JY / PnP this week for some $50 flasher relays(plural). I thought I would add this to the write up for those of you who are about to do the same thing I am battling through with this GDM to VIC conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Update:

I have confirmed the Hazard flasher was the issue with the buzzing. The wire was correctly soldered in, but I had the wrong Flasher in my Jeep.

I picked up like five of 'em at the JY/PnP today, among many other electrical things.

We have one more battle won.

The final battle will take place soon enough. I have the enemy cornered in a faulty Coolant Sensor Circuit and I shall show no mercy! :devil:

Unconditional Surrender or Final Defeat will be the only outcome. I'll add in some pictures of the flasher tomorrow when I can get a camera on one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Here is the holy grail of hazard flashers --> It is LED capable and enough load capacity for 6 or 8 lights. It adds some kind of information to the CCD Bus for ECM interpretation. What that may be... I dunno...
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Everything is in and wired/connected correctly. The only hiccup at the moment is the coolant reservoir sensor has an issue. It will register something wrong, not low coolant, and then it will stop after about 20 minutes of driving. I am suspecting some kind of wiring issue or disconnected plug somewhere in the harness.

As I started to do this swap, I noticed that the Coolant Reservoir Sensor plug was already in my engine compartment. It very well could be disconnected somewhere in the harness and I do not know it. I will get at it tonight, hopefully, with a multi-meter and figure out what the issue is.

After that, it will be completely converted over from the Graphic Display Module and be error free. It will be a long time coming though. I started this thread almost two years ago this next February.

I will then find something else on the list to correct/fix/replace. There is plenty to do... :rolleyes:
 

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As I have come to learn, there is ALWAYS something to do on our XJ's

Congrats on the VIC.

Thanks for the updates
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
This lil bastard is acting like a Badger in a corner. I went to finish it off today by figuring out the Bad Coolant Sensor issue. I tested the sensor... bad. I got a new one and the VIC still has an issue. Something in the wiring somewhere. I got frustrated and with for the day, but not before I dug apart the VIC Connector.

An important side note for anyone attempting to do this. Do not just start it and let it go because you get frustrated. I started this conversion almost a Year and a Half Ago, and I forgot why I wired things a certain way.

Looking at the damned VIC connector, I came to the realization that I left the GDM harness in there and connected the extra run wires to the connector. Well, the thing is all FUBAR. At least when it comes to the color coding in the connector. Below is an example of why it is a good thing to make sure you use the harness connector from the donor Jeep.

**The green lines indicate that the color coded pin out sheet is correct for that wire/cavity in the connector, and the other wires are the color coded connector that is not the way it should be. :brickwall:

Meaning that the pinout sheet is inaccurate for which wires are in labelled cavities. The resulting color codes are what was in the connector from the factory.
 

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Dude, you burn some serious midnight oil. I have stressed over what should be "simple" fixes that have kept me up.

I love how you can ID wires in your diagrams, Is that part of the manuals?

Do you have the pinouts of the GDM connector?

Its a shame that something as simple as a coolant level sensor, is such a huge PITA.
 

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I have checked some wiring diagrams, It looks like pin 1 on the vic is low coolant. There looks to be a ground on the fender for the sensor, from cavity b on the sensor connector, and cavity a, which is the sensor wire, goes directly to the VIC. But, it does go through connector 234, which plugs into the instrument panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I love how you can ID wires in your diagrams, Is that part of the manuals?
The diagrams come straight out of the service manual PDF's, and then I alter them with MS 'Paint'. The color codes on the right side in the boxes are what in reality is in my connector and not in the Service Manual.

Do you have the pinouts of the GDM connector?
Yeah, I do. I just was a bit frustrated last night when I was trying to solve the problem. It has been 18 months since I wired those wires into the ZJ. I didn't want to go chasing them.

Its a shame that something as simple as a coolant level sensor, is such a huge PITA.
It really isn't, it is just that I did a shotty job the first time around so that now when I am looking for the issue; I find more *****e I have to correct/fix. I should have just used the connector from the vic and I could ID the lines better and more accurately.

There was a point last night where I genuinely asked myself if I just wired according to wire colors and not cavity.

...it does go through connector 234, which plugs into the instrument panel.
Yeah, I got em... I just didn't have the time to get er done AND watch The Walking Dead last night. I should get er done today; hopefully
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The plug on the sensor was the problem. The negative ground cavity was making intermittent contact with the sensor tang.


I declare victory over this conversion mod! :boxing:

If anyone ever needs some help with this or has a question, don't be shy...
 

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HOORAYYYY!!!!!!!!! :thewave::thewave::boogie::boogie::boogie::boogie:
 

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I know this is an old thread but I am currently working on this and all the photo links are broken...

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Wondering if they are Photobucket photos. All that crap that went down awhile back and you couldn't see them anymore.
I can see them so thinking maybe....
I use Google Chrome on a desktop and this:

 

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I see the pics and diagrams on my chrome brower. fwiw
 

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I'm on an Android phone with Chrome and I see the pics fine. I do believe I used the link to be able to view them that superman mentioned
 
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