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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 96 xj 4.0 with an AW4 transmission. I've come to the conclusion that I need a new flywheel because it's cracked. I had a couple of jeep owners and a mechanic tell me the same thing after inspecting both the engine and transmission while engine was running. I pulled the inspection plate and tightened the bolts on the flywheel that were visible. I can't seem to find any diagrams of the transmission to engine to see what bolts to what. I am assuming that the bolts that I tightened (which didn't get rid of that knocking/vibrating noise) bolts to the torque converter. Once I disengage the tranny from the engine, the flywheel will remain on the engine and I have to unbolt the flywheel from the center shaft of the motor??? :brickwall:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
lol, thanks for that encouragement. Seems strait forward though. :eek::blink:
 

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That's a good time to do a new rear main seal on the engine as well :thumbsup:
 

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Unbolt the torque converter first, then push it back into the tranny creating a gap between the torque converter and flex plate. This keeps the torque converter in the transmission and you will not have to worry about loosing fluid or indexing the torque converter at installation.

Unbolt the tranny from the engine and undo crossmember to drop the tranny. Do not try to unbolt the shift selector at the side of the transmission, just pop the linkage. The top 2 tranny bolts require an inverted torx socket and about 3 feet of extensions to get out, replace with standard head grade 8 bolts of the same length if you want.

Best thing for removing the flex plate bolts is an impact as it will not turn the engine as you try to undo them.

before reattaching the tranny to the engine make sure the torque converter is seated properly. The center nub of the torque converter should be inside the bellhousing face.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unbolt the torque converter first, then push it back into the tranny creating a gap between the torque converter and flex plate. This keeps the torque converter in the transmission and you will not have to worry about loosing fluid or indexing the torque converter at installation.

Unbolt the tranny from the engine and undo crossmember to drop the tranny. Do not try to unbolt the shift selector at the side of the transmission, just pop the linkage. The top 2 tranny bolts require an inverted torx socket and about 3 feet of extensions to get out, replace with standard head grade 8 bolts of the same length if you want.

Best thing for removing the flex plate bolts is an impact as it will not turn the engine as you try to undo them.

before reattaching the tranny to the engine make sure the torque converter is seated properly. The center nub of the torque converter should be inside the bellhousing face.
So, without an impact, if I happen to move the flywheel left or right a little, what's the worse that will happen? Will it be too hard to realign? Sorry, I'm used to working outside of the engine. Also, what is the best way to support the transmission? I do have a floor jack bu how will I balance the transmission when it's off the vehicle and will the engine need further supporting so that the rear doesn't try to fall backwards and damage the motor mounts? Or, is the motor balanced on the mounts when the transmission is off of it? Thanks for your input :thumbsup: I've read other posts on this but some of them don't have the small details that might go wrong if I'm not prepared. :eek::confused:
 

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So, without an impact, if I happen to move the flywheel left or right a little, what's the worse that will happen? Will it be too hard to realign? Sorry, I'm used to working outside of the engine. Also, what is the best way to support the transmission? I do have a floor jack bu how will I balance the transmission when it's off the vehicle and will the engine need further supporting so that the rear doesn't try to fall backwards and damage the motor mounts? Or, is the motor balanced on the mounts when the transmission is off of it? Thanks for your input :thumbsup: I've read other posts on this but some of them don't have the small details that might go wrong if I'm not prepared. :eek::confused:
Realignment shouldn't be an issue, until reattaching the trans. I used a motorcycle jack with rachet straps to secure the trans. As far as the flexplate(flywheels are for manual transmissions, flexplates for auto) I put a rachet on the crank pulley(19mm I think)and had a friend hold it still while I undid the bolts on the flexplate. Same thing when installing new flexplate. The motormounts should be ok with the trans off. Might want to have a jack under the motor for piece on mind. lining up the bolts between the trans and motor was the most frustating thing for me, jack this up a bit, lower that... I loosened the motor mounts abit and had a jack under the oil pan(with a 4x4 wood block between the two) and had to jack the motor up\ lower it to get the bolts inline. Not really hard but a little time consuming. Good Luck!:thumbsup: Switched Tranny's 2 months ago, still fresh in my memory.
 

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Almost forgot, Make triple sure the torque converter is in its proper place before mounting the trans. push the torque converter towards the rear of the trans and rotate it clock wise. keep doing that until the converter stops moving in(will still rotate).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advise guys. Drew D. your last note, I'm still not sure what you mean by making sure the t/C is in proper place. What exactly does this mean since you said make triple sure :thumbsup:
 

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Make sure that it is almost flush with the inside of the bell housing at the front pump. Spin the t converter while installing it to the transmission shaft until it can't go any further. If the Torque Converter in not seated properly, the trans won't mount up and you could cause damage to the front shaft trying to force it together.
 

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So I replaced my flex plate because my starter would not engage, come to find out that it was completely cracked all the way around the 6 bolts and only held on by the ~'washer'~ around them. So everything went smooth up until I went to start it and now it wont rev past 2000.. I replaced the CPS and everything else was good before I did this. Is it possible I installed the flex plate wrong and the CPS is getting the wrong reading?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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So I replaced my flex plate because my starter would not engage, come to find out that it was completely cracked all the way around the 6 bolts and only held on by the ~'washer'~ around them. So everything went smooth up until I went to start it and now it wont rev past 2000.. I replaced the CPS and everything else was good before I did this. Is it possible I installed the flex plate wrong and the CPS is getting the wrong reading?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Im having the same issue did you ever resolve it
???
 
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