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Discussion Starter #1
ok i have a 96 zj, i put a 3.5" lift on. (iron rock)

now i moved the caster adjustment all the way to move the bottom of the axle forward.

i read that with this much lift the bottom control arm needs to be 1" to 1.25" longer while the top remains stock at 15" sound right?

i ordered a set of adjustable lowers should be here any day now. until then i still have a bad vibe above 60-65mph

ball joints all tight. dampener like new. new shocks. 245/75/16 tires. 8 ply. 40 ish psi. balanced them last week just to check

alignment is dead on 0 toe in. i tried a little in and little out. dead on seems to be best. i just built a bumper and installed a winch and it helped adding weight to the front. but still want this fixed. build post to come on bumper also.


now i got a gauge that says its at 7 degrees. going off the bottom drivers side knuckle. looking at it 0 up and needle going right. hoping pic worked.

is this good enough? stock arms still here.

my pinion is -2 and drive shaft is -10
 

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Toe in alignment set to 1/8in? Also I would air those tires down to 30-33 psi. 40 is a little too much for a 3200-3800lb Jeep
 

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Discussion Starter #3
tried 1/8 in made it worse it seemed. so its back at dead on. ill let some air out tho.

and i ordered a set of lower control arms. specs say a little over 16 with 3-4" lift while stock is 15.75 . i moved the caster adjustment that far. so did i waste my money?

the stock ones do have minor movement. but far from wore out enuf in my eyes to cause an issue.

most ppl set their caster to 7-8 degrees correct? should i try a bit more once i get the arms on?


and fyi i have a 07 2500hd cummins.... same exact issue. 3.5" lift. ive added every gusset and brace and double dampeners . aligned. everything buut control arms. rides like crap. hit a bump shakes all over. barely drive it 55mph. has to be a cause for this . driving me crazy. and costing a ton of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, forgot to add. Iron rock adjustable track bar. Bushings fair on control arms. New lowers said to arrive tomorrow.
 

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make sure those track bar bolts are torqued down nice and tight. I think New control arms will help. When you say you moved the caster adjustment forward more was this done by placing shims behind the lower rear control arm? I have 3.5in lift on my XJ and My arms were 16.in measured from the hole and I have had no problems whatsoever
 

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Discussion Starter #7
just went off this chart i googled for length per inch of lift.

yeah i tightened the track bar super tight.

the grand cherokee has adjustable caster bolts. where the xj does not. you can add them and buy the lower weld on mount tho.
 

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Are these caster bolts located at the rear of the lower control arm? XJ's have these but most people don't mess with them and just opt for adjustable control arms instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No, every vehicle ive ever worked on was the same. lower arm, on axle side. i didnt take a pic of it. but a quick google search will find u the pic and info
 

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Are these caster bolts located at the rear of the lower control arm? XJ's have these but most people don't mess with them and just opt for adjustable control arms instead.
XJ have the "Shoe" that is adjusted with shims. ZJ/TJ have crappy cam bolts @ the axle side. Same principal, but better off with adj. either way.
I would recommend a pair of Cam-bolt eliminators to go with your adjustable arms.

Not sure about ZJ's but pretty sure that a slight caster difference will not make for terrible vibes.
I would go with the method of pulling a driveshaft, see if the vibe goes away. Not sure what t-case you have, but if it's a 249.. get rid of it meow! And swap either a 231 or 242
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Installed lower control arms... Do gone.... Rubber was wore out, torn up in the oem arms. No more vibration
 

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Bushings will cause tons of problems with the front end when they wear out- not surprised this was your culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah rides like a tank now lol. But before when u hit a bump with just one front wheel u did the head weave side to side a foot. Only thing left is update the steering to the heavier draglink and tie Rod bar. Oem is weak. No steering should be so puny u can pull on the bar and see it flex Imo.
 

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I6 has the same toothpick tie rod as the XJ, V8 has a solid stock rod, which is better.
The drag link is fine really. Yes, aftermarket steering is better than stock. But stock draglink is decent, upgrading the tierod itself will help.
 
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