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Discussion Starter #181 (Edited)
Got exhaust put on today by a local shop down the road. Just a knock off magnaflow and tail pipe.
Gotta take it back in though, tail pipe has an upturn at the end which blocks the bolt above for skid plate. :facepalm:
Really wish I’d gotten my bumper back on first. (Bumper has tie-in rails that use those bolts with the nutstrips.)
Also the lazy *** decided to hack off my shackle bolt instead of taking it out and turning it around. Not too happy about that.
Edit: of course had it been turned around then I wouldn’t be able to get it out against the tailpipe either

Been dialing in the steering, took out the passenger side TRE and teamed the knuckle a bit more to get the TRE seated tighter, and tightened up the drag link TRE. Seems to have reduced the tie rod roll to where it’s manageable. Adjusted drag link again to center steering wheel, think I finally got it.
Steering is good but still doesn’t pull back to center very well. Wish it centered more tightly.
 

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Did you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and find the center? Use that center to make sure your steering box is centered. Adjust your drag link last, make sure your axle is centered with the track bar. There is also an adjust on the steering box to help take out play. And if your toe or caster are off, it can prevent your wheel from centering.
 

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Discussion Starter #183
Did you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and find the center? Use that center to make sure your steering box is centered. Adjust your drag link last, make sure your axle is centered with the track bar. There is also an adjust on the steering box to help take out play. And if your toe or caster are off, it can prevent your wheel from centering.


Yeah steering is getting better, just a matter of getting its all fine tuned and getting used to it, since linkage and gear box are all new. (Box is remanned Durango) had to go through a couple rounds of align/adjust/drive/adjust/drive to get it to settle in.
At this point it might be down to very small toe adjustment
 

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Discussion Starter #184 (Edited)
Exhaust is also about 1.5 - 2” short; at modest flex makes contact with bumpstop, and has about a half in before makes contact with shock mount. Already melted shock boot. Bringing back to the shop on Tuesday, see what they can do
 

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Discussion Starter #185
Well the exhaust shop “fixed” the clearance issues with this really nasty lookin joint. Even missed a spot on the top leaving a nice leak. Holy crap, did they even look at their work?
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Measured rear pinion at 8.7 degrees, driveshaft at 12.7 degrees.
2 degree shims should be what I need, you want to maintain a 2 degree difference, right? (SYE and new double cardon driveshaft.)

Finally got front driveshaft U-joint replaced and driveshaft installed, and t-case skid plate on.

Last remaining details are Parking brake cables, steering stabilizer, rear axle shims, and side steps.
 

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I think your are right. I'm using 4* shims and I think I'm about 2* difference. The pinion is naturally gonna rise up under load. So the 2* can turn in to 0 pretty quick. Just gotta try it and see. every Jeep is different
 

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Discussion Starter #188 (Edited)
Finally finished repainting rear bumper and got it back on.

Had to remove gas tank skid and open up some holes in skid and body to make everything line up with the new nut strips. Bumper has nut strip tie-in brackets.

Oh yeah, that tail pipe definitely knocks against the bumper brackets and makes noise. Thinking of cutting it and just adding a turndown tip.
However, that let me inspect the condition of the frame rails there under the skid plate. Looks like some reinforcements/ frame stiffeners will definitely be in order before too long.
This is all damage from being rear ended about 3 years ago. Body shop stretched it back out and covered up the visible damage to make pretty. But on closer inspection, there is buckling and cracking on the inside of the unibody rails on both driver and passenger side, next to gas tank.

That’s all pass. side, didn’t take any pics of driver side, but that’s the area where the fuel filler hoses are which is prone to rot anyway.
Oh well, something to look forward to for next round.
Right now I’m thinking in maybe two years I’ll start next phase which will involve some welding, and I’ll get into the frame repair and some sliders, along side floors in the Wagoneer. And gears and 35s.
All in due time. But I don’t think the back end will fall apart before then.
 

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The Jeep looks good. If your nut strips extend beyond the frame damage, your safe for several years. If it's beyond the strips I would keep a close eye on it. Don't tow if you can help it. You will be amazed at the difference frame stiffeners make.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
The damage is right before the forward most hole on the nutstrips, so there is reinforcement. More wary of damaged steel in a place already known to rot! (Fuel filler)
 

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Discussion Starter #192
Got my delivery from Quadratec yesterday. After dinner installed a Rubicon Express steering stabilizer (was one of the less expensive ones at $39) and installed new parking brake cables. Yay I have parking brake now, kind of important on a 5-speed.

Steering feels a bit tighter and more consistent now, i like running a stabilizer.
Overall steering is pretty good now, center is still a range more than a natural absolute.
One thing I can’t seem to correct, and would like any opinions about, is that steering is affected by engine torque.
When accelerating, tendency is to pull left. Let off the gas and it drifts right.
Don’t know what, If anything, could be done about that.
 

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You have a lift and aftermarket steering?
 

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Discussion Starter #195 (Edited)
You have a lift and aftermarket steering?
Yup
RE lift and Ironman 1-ton steering, all new. One new hub, Other is only 5 yrs old and still good. Only thing not replaced was axle u-joints, also only 5 yrs old and still good.
And as far as I can tell from eyeballing it, trackbar and drag link angles look compatible. At Alignment caster was around 5.7, camber was fine and we got toe in spec.
Curious how it would read now though, I would bet if we put it on the rack it wouldn’t read the same.
Thinking I’ll do that when I get tires in a couple months.
 

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Can you send a pic of it?
 

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With that design, you get tie rod roll. So what is happening is that when accelerating and decelerating, the tie rod rolls, which will change the position of the wheels because the drag link is effectively shortened and lengthened. There are some poly bushings you can get to minimize that, but not cure it entirely. It looks like you could swap the passenger tie rod end to the drag link, which would cure it entirely
 

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Discussion Starter #199
Scavenged two Reelcraft 50’ air hose reels with regulators from my warehouse ceiling today. My company moved to this warehouse over the summer and these were left in the rafters.
 

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Cool. I have a hose reel in my shop and love it.
 
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