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Discussion Starter #202
With that design, you get tie rod roll. So what is happening is that when accelerating and decelerating, the tie rod rolls, which will change the position of the wheels because the drag link is effectively shortened and lengthened. There are some poly bushings you can get to minimize that, but not cure it entirely

Yeah I’ve done what I can to try to control the roll; poly bushings, had to go back and open up the knuckles a little more to get the TREs to sit tighter. I guess it’s just the nature of the design and something I just have to get used to? It’s tough having nothing to compare to, having never seen this type of setup on another vehicle.
 

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If you can swap that rod end to the drag link, it will do it. Try contacting the manufacturer
 

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Discussion Starter #205
Double fail tonight.
Tried to install these 2.5 degree shims on the rear axle, realized I would need longer leaf center pins because it only grabbed about two turns.
so I ordered longer ones, Rancho. But the end ball that sits in the leaf perch is too small. :brickwall:

Ah crap, can’t bolt it back up tonight, gotta search for another brand that will fit I guess.
I had also ordered a hardware kit to install this set of Smittybilt nerf bars that I’ve had sitting around for years. (I know nerf bars suck but I want the family to still be able to climb in.)

Found out one end of the tube where the bracket bolts on has rusted away sitting for so long.

Oh well guess I get to come in from the cold and go to bed tonight.
Gonna contact a machine shop buddy and see if he can help patch that up before I run em.
Need to get this back on the road by Saturday though so we can bring home a Christmas tree. Yup, That’s priority number one.
 

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I bought long grade 8 bolts and ground the heads down to fit in the spring perch, cause I'm cheep!!

You can slip a piece of pipe inside the end to rebuild what's rusted out. I used conduit when I repaired the spare tire carrier on mine, but I slid about 6" inside where it wss rusted. Made a pretty solid repair. And since it was gonna set on my bumper, I wasn't worried about it breaking.
 

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Center bolts are available at real auto parts stores like NAPA. I don't use grade 8 bolts on springs because they are brittle and won't flex with the spring. Center bolts are very soft for that reason
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Center bolts are available at real auto parts stores like NAPA. I don't use grade 8 bolts on springs because they are brittle and won't flex with the spring. Center bolts are very soft for that reason

I went to NAPA first. Not in stock and would have been more in shipping and longer wait time. But might have fit...

I’ve also read of people using socket head bolts. Might try that.
Need a new battery in my calipers though so I can verify size of that head.
 

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I use Doorman bolts
 

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Center bolts are available at real auto parts stores like NAPA. I don't use grade 8 bolts on springs because they are brittle and won't flex with the spring. Center bolts are very soft for that reason
Well I feel like an idiot! But I'm glad this gets the proper info out there. Thanks 4.3.
 

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Well I feel like an idiot! But I'm glad this gets the proper info out there. Thanks 4.3.
Don't feel bad about this. The only reason I would know is I had a business in the 70s designing and installing lift kits. Worked a day in a spring foundry so I would understand leaf springs. A day well spent
 

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Discussion Starter #212
4.3 always coming through with that real knowledge!

But this is getting silly now - I got some new RE bolts since they are RE springs and the head is still not the same as the one that came with the springs that had a nice snug fit. These are still small and flop around in the hole on the perch.
Am I right in thinking this will be a problem and allow for movement of the spring pack on the perch?

Original spring center Lin nice snug fit stood up straight

Replacement pin flops around
 

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I won't use the word never on a real tight fit, but generally there is a little slop in that hole. What you want to avoid is an egg shaped hole. You need to remember that the center bolt is an alignment device for the spring leaves. Once in place, it is the U bolts that actually hold the spring in place and take all the beating.
 

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Discussion Starter #214
I won't use the word never on a real tight fit, but generally there is a little slop in that hole. What you want to avoid is an egg shaped hole. You need to remember that the center bolt is an alignment device for the spring leaves. Once in place, it is the U bolts that actually hold the spring in place and take all the beating.


I just came back to this after thinking more on what you said about the soft bolts to allow for a little flexibility and thought hmmm maybe a little play is not a bad thing in this instance.
Also I inspected my old stock leaves and original axle (this axle is out of a donor Jeep) to find the original axle perches and leaf pins were much smaller to begin with anyway, and I actually just got stupid lucky that the hole I. The donor perches accepted the pin in the RE springs at all. It’s a super snug fit that had to be pressed in, and I just assumed that was the way it was supposed to fit. Had I tried to put the RE leaf pack on my original stock axle I would have had to open up the hole on the perches anyway.

Ok I think I get it now, I’m gonna run with these RE pins and get it back together.
 

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Correct me if I am wrong, but once you torque down the spring u-bolts, they should be checked after a couple hundred miles and snugged up due to settling.
 

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Discussion Starter #216
Correct me if I am wrong, but once you torque down the spring u-bolts, they should be checked after a couple hundred miles and snugged up due to settling.


Yup will do. When I went to loosen them to do these shims, they were indeed loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #217
Uh oh, think I have a radiator leak. Dammit! Thought it was just the upper hose but this looks like it’s coming from a joint at the side. Thing is only 5 years old too. SMH. It’s a CSF 3-row.
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Aw Crap! Hopefully, it's under warranty
Leak is getting steadily worse. :(
I tried to find record of purchase for this radiator but all i could find was a post here from when i installed it.
https://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f23/what-did-you-do-your-xj-zj-wj-today-404/index738.html#post366473

Looked back at Amazon history and found purchase for all the accessories - hoses, clamps, water pump, - but not the radiator itself. Dangit!
Guess i could try calling CSF and beg. Dont know what the actual warranty on their radiators is. I did find some other forum posts about folks getting replacements after five, six, seven years though, including someone who called after seven years and admitted to using the orange dex cool stuff a that corroded joints and caused the leak and they replaced it for him. So i guess its worth a shot.
Think they'll take that picture from my original post as proof of purchase? lol:rolleyes:
 

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Wow, 6 years. and no receipt. You can try. Best of luck.
Maybe it's in your glove box.

I store all my email receipts in a folder for that vehicle or vendor. Possible you do too?

fwiw, the pic proves there was a radiator.
 
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