Jeep Cherokee Talk banner

41 - 60 of 233 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
This engine is so nasty. Greasy grimy globs of gook cover everything. I didn’t realize how badly this valve cover was leaking from the seal and the PCV grommets.
Last night I wore my fingers down cleaning and polishing the gasket mating surface on top, and worked at the block and other surfaces I could get to, and cleaned up the cover itself.
I want to hit this valve cover with some paint before it goes back on, what should I do to prep it so it will take some rattle can goodness?
So far just cleaned with simple green and rags and brushes.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,756 Posts
Scuff it, rinse with brakklean, apply self etching primer and then paint.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,070 Posts
EEEWWWWW, that is purdy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
927 Posts
That is a project that is long over due on my list of things I need to get done.
Looks Good!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,031 Posts
I would wash with DAWN dish soap first, then scuff, then use a degreaser- wax remover and wash again. Let dry and prime and paint. Wear rubber gloves during the whole process cause the oil in your hands will ruin the job.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I have zero knowledge of actual engine building. (Willing to learn though) anything I should look for while I have the valve cover off? Some of the rockers have a little bit of play when wiggled as you can hear in this video. Others are solid. Any concern?

https://youtu.be/fxZlh_LrcpY
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,076 Posts
I have zero knowledge of actual engine building. (Willing to learn though) anything I should look for while I have the valve cover off? Some of the rockers have a little bit of play when wiggled as you can hear in this video. Others are solid. Any concern?

https://youtu.be/fxZlh_LrcpY
:D It's not unusual for some to be loose while others are tight. It all depends on the position of the cam shaft and what valves are either open, closed or in between. Be very careful cleaning the top. There are holes that let the oil drain back down into the crankcase. You don't want any sludge plugging those holes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Dig.
I’ll be careful checking for gunk before i close it back up, I did a lot of scrubbing.

Edit: I’m not cleaning anything on top except the gasket mating surface
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Last night Cleaned more engine funk and gunk, such as oil filter adapter




And dropped oil pan.
Tonight rear main seal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Rear main seal complete, without incident. Most difficult part was scraping out old RTV from the channel in the bearing cap.


Applied RTV as specified on install.

Also painted up valve cover after scuff up with 3M pads and wash with degreaser.
Picked up a bunch of paint a couple weeks ago, overstock/ buyback stuff at $2 a pop, so this is what I’ll be using.

Got like 8 cans of krypton primer, 6 krylon black, 6 hammered silver, a gallon of acetone, quart of lacquer thinner, and 4 cans of degreaser for $65.



Not so sure about the hammered silver now that it’s on. More “textured” than “hammered” - thinking it will just end up holding more dirt and harder to clean
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,076 Posts
Veddy nice! I used hammered paint on my bull bar, and bed liner on my sliders, I prefer the hammered. It has a bit of gloss but looks way better than that faded bed liner. It is way more durable too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Upon second coat and painting oil pan, discovered this particular paint needs to be laid on close slow and heavy to get a smooth finish. Otherwise it’s a rough texture
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
I am getting so intimate with this thing. I’m all up in the nether regions, cleaning, scrubbing, brushing, prepping to hit any little rust spots now while I can. This will be the last time I’m ever here unless I swap motors. It’s good to get so deep into a thing and know that I know what’s going on. Should y be any inch of this chassis that I haven’t touched by the time it’s back on the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
880 Posts
I am getting so intimate with this thing. I’m all up in the nether regions, cleaning, scrubbing, brushing, prepping to hit any little rust spots now while I can. This will be the last time I’m ever here unless I swap motors. It’s good to get so deep into a thing and know that I know what’s going on. Should y be any inch of this chassis that I haven’t touched by the time it’s back on the road.
I'm big on that too. I like to refer to it as housekeeping. LOL.

Or my

"Well while I am are here maybe I should ________."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
I've been working hard and consistently the past few days - i almost said ive been making good progress, but stopped short, because one doesn't always equal the other.
Tonight was getting frustrated and stuck, and got halted by the task at hand, and started to doubt and question whether the work id been doing was the most important work to be done, and in the right order, and im starting to get stressed about having the right parts ordered in time, and keep finding myself without certain necessary tools, and starting to get sore in t he neck, and starting to realize that t he mosquitos are going to be a problem as the season moves on, and im over budget already and
SHUT THE F*** UP YOU ASSHAT :brickwall::50cal:

So I was doing fine while i was cleaning and scrubbing and prepping and painting. Then i had to wait for some primer to cure so on Sunday i moved to the axles. I tackled the rear donor 8.25 first.
Just to reiterate, i had bought a pair of stock axles from a 98 auto XJ with 3.55 gears, to just swap those in under my jeep to replace the stock 3.07 rears that came with my manual XJ. Easy little boost to better run 31 or 32's for a while till i fully regear.
They are way more rusty and clapped out than mine, but i figures on refreshing and painting that axles during this process anyway, so i figured i can make it work.

The 8.25 is shaping up nicely. I stripped it down, drained the dark stinky fluid and checked the gears for any chipping or signs of wear, and they seem ok. So i hit it with a braided wire heel for a long while and it started to clean up ok, looks like i'll be able to give it some paint and new axle seals and run it. i think the pinion seal might leak but i'l probably just leave it. I bought ZJ disc brakes off a local kid parting out a 98 ZJ, been waiting to score that stuff without having to travel, so i'll get those ready and painted and built.
I think the rear donor 8.25 will come together fine.

So then i turned to the D30s and realized they arent going to cooperate as nicely.
I'm having trouble getting my original apart, i can't seem to break the hubs loose. The bolts are out, the axle nut is off, i'd like to get the hub off or just take the whole axle and hub out together, but i cant get the the thing to budge on either side. Soaked, heated, hammered and beat upon. If that bearing wasn't going bad already, it sure needs replacing now.
Still cant break it free of the knuckle. tried both sides for a while, cant budge either one.

So how bout the donor:
This thing is nasty. I dont think theres any way the hub bolts are coming out of the passenger side hub, the exposed threads are completely mangled. I'll have to grind the tips off the bolts and then try to break them out.
But given that i cant get the hubs off my axle, that i put in just 5 years ago, i have less hope of getting the hubs off of this donor axle. i dont know that theres any way i can get this apart without some serious effort and time. Then if i do get it apart, the rust is worse on this that on the .35, and there's so many more crevices and hidden areas to get to ....
man, this is looking like a lot of work, my axle is in much better shape to start with and will be a lot easier to replace parts on, easier to clean up and paint, wouldnt it be easier at this point to figure out how to swap the gears than to try to salvage this housing?

Ahh, here we go. The whole point of the donor axle is to avoid getting into setting up gears right now. I dont trust that i would have the knowledge, skills, tools, time and patience to get into that.

But ****, its gotta be a smarter move to learn to do that than to waste the time trying to polish that turd of an axle. Work smarter not harder right?
Seems that a good way to learn about this would be just moving the ring and pinion from one axle to the other.
Meanwhile i still couldnt get the axle shafts to of my original D30.
Frustrated, i moved away from the axles.
I couldn't call it a night and walk away feeling defeated though, i had to get one thing done at least, complete one task, stay on top of one game, beat something into submission.
So i reached for the new High Flow oil pump that i wasnt sure if i was going to keep and install or not, and decided to try to set the pickup tube. It's gotta be pressed into the pump body by brute force. I read that it has to be hammered in . the tube has a flared end where it meets the body, so people say to put an open end wrench over top of eh flare and pound away with a hammer. So i grabbed a vise, a 5/8 wrench, and a hammer, and started pounding away.
What a shitshow that was. Really hard to get started without it tipping one way or the other, till i set the screen atop the box it came in to help keep it stable. Then it just took for ever to get this thing tapped in.
the tube is a little marred, the flare is chewed up, but i think it worked.
Next i guess i'll see if I need to pound out the oil pan anwhere to ft the larger pump or screen, or grind down the new pump anywhere to fit.
Yup, seems like a waste of tie to replace somthing that wasnt broke and may not even be an upgrade.
oh well at least i will be able to say it's been done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,756 Posts
Been there. It sucks. But take a breath or a day, and make a new list with smaller steps and focus on that. A change of context may help you gain the momentum back for the rest of the big stuff.

As for the axles: heat, penetrating oil, and hammers. It will come loose. I like to take my axle shafts out with the hubs. Makes more sense in my head since the shaft has to come out anyhow. A chisel or pry bar may get you the lip you need to hammer out the hub. Or a slide-hammer.

The bolts for the hub are the first step. Wire brush the visible threads. Soak in pb blaster. Use an impact and go slow. Back and forth until its moving easier. Heat on the knuckle casting near each bolt wouldnt hurt. The tips of the bolts are tapered so cutting that little bit of end off doesnt gain you anything but frustration as you waste time cutting them.

You already know this, but next time use neverseize between the hub and knuckle. And on the hub bolts. Mine don't come loose, so dont worry about that.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Came back to it tonight with a moment of inspiration. Broke that sucker free one-handed. Every now and then I’m good at working smarter not harder!

Bottle jack wedged between the shock mount and the rotor, affixed with lugs, and something to brace the other side from turning, in this case a drum.
Turn turn turn Pop!
 
41 - 60 of 233 Posts
Top