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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, first post! Looking forward to exploring the wealth of knowledge here. Hopefully someone can help me get my jeep rolling again.

I have a new, to me, '98 XJ and it's already kicking my butt. Reminds me of old times when I had a '89.

Here's the situation. I was attempting to install a Powertrax No-Slip locker in the 8.25 rear end. When I removed the pinion shaft bolt/pin it broke, unless it was broken already. Seems to be a common issue. No problem, I'll just drill it and extract it - Nope. The extractor bit caught and then snapped as it was backing out. I removed what I could with a pick, but couldn't get all of it out of the bolt. Now it's preventing any progress with a drill bit. I've tried several different cobalt bits, but I think I spun the remaining threads beyond the hole threads so it's wedged I think. Oops.

So now I'm into trying to drill into the pinion shaft itself to get access to the bolt/pin to get it out. I can't get anything more than a dimple into the pin; I'm assuming it's hardened steel. I've tried so many different cobalt bits, and oil as I go. You can see my little progress after lots of drilling in the attached photos. You'll notice the housing is a little beat up around the pin. I tried holding a socket on it and beating it with a hammer trying to break the pin, out of desperation.

I'm thinking about getting a Dremel or die grinder to try, but still don't know what bit or wheel would cut it.

Any ideas from the experts, or anyone who's experienced this before? I also purchased one of the kits for this that comes with the cored out screw and long drill bit, but I think the broken extractor bit screwed me on any more drilling attempts.

I just wanted to do a simple lunchbox locker install, and now my Jeep's been on jack stands for a week. :crying2:










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I haven't done this on an 8.25, but on all spicer carriers that hole goes all the way through. So remove the carrier, keeping track of the bearing caps and which direction they go in. Take a pin punch and try to drive it out the other side. I think from the pic and threads, it should drive free
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't done this on an 8.25, but on all spicer carriers that hole goes all the way through. So remove the carrier, keeping track of the bearing caps and which direction they go in. Take a pin punch and try to drive it out the other side. I think from the pic and threads, it should drive free
I would love to pull the carrier and do this on a bench instead of laying on the floor, but.... C-Clips prevent that I believe. Can’t remove the clips until that pin is free.


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Another reason to love C clip axles
 
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The center pin is hardened steel. The bolt is hardened too, I would guess grade 8. But it is still drillable. It's too late now, but I would have welded a nut onto it and waited till it cooled then it should have turned right out. The threads are slightly larger diameter of the actual bolt shaft that goes through the center pin. You are almost there. Rotate the carrier and gently tap the center pin from the other side. It should move a tiny bit. this may help to unlock the threads. If you have a stick welder, you can stick a welding rod down in there and as soon as the rod arcs hold it there and try to get it to stick to the bolt, remove the stinger and try to use the welding rod to turn it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got it!!!

It took a small air grinder with a carbide burr bit dug right into the shaft and severed the bolt. Once I punched out the shaft, I use a magnet to get remainder of pin out of the hole.

Now I can finally get on to installing the locker!






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Congrats. That had to suck. But I'm glad you you it. You don't have to pull the carrier to install a lunchbox locker, which one did you get? But I would just to make sure and clean all the metal shavings out of the housing. Like 4.3 said just make sure and Mark the caps so you put the them back on exactly how they came off. Some lockers use the thrush washers from the spiders,and others don't. Depends on the brand.
As for the lift or skids, I would do the lift first, go at least 3". 1.5" just doesn't seem like it's worth the effort. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Congrats. That had to suck. But I'm glad you you it. You don't have to pull the carrier to install a lunchbox locker, which one did you get? But I would just to make sure and clean all the metal shavings out of the housing. Like 4.3 said just make sure and Mark the caps so you put the them back on exactly how they came off. Some lockers use the thrush washers from the spiders,and others don't. Depends on the brand.
As for the lift or skids, I would do the lift first, go at least 3". 1.5" just doesn't seem like it's worth the effort. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks!

I got the Powertrax No-Slip. Today I plan to clean up the housing real good and drop it in.

I don’t remember mentioning lift/skids, but I do have a 4” long arm kit and skids on order. Then I can fit the 33s waiting in the garage. ;)


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Glad you got it out.
 
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