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Don't worry, you're not ruffling my feathers. I'm sitting on my couch waiting patiently for your updates. I feel bad for you, cause you gotta do all the work.
 

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I would try .075 on your inner pinion. Try to get a clean a pattern as possible. Make sure we can clearly see the ridge (top of the tooth) and the valley. It's more the shape of the pattern that counts. That's why I said I wished they included a pattern when they were built. But unless your housing can reproduce exactly the jig they were ground in, you may never match that pattern. Your close. Very close.
 

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Discussion Starter #483
I dont like run J
Yeah, after reading the Yukon manual, and thinking a bit more about it: I'm gonna put it somewhere in between runs 'D' and 'C'(a little deeper than H).

I think a little bit deeper than the center of the teeth, but still plenty of room between the top of the tooth and the valley underneath. Somewhere around .074" to .075" on the pinion depth.

I appreciate it supamaing!
 

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Discussion Starter #485
It's more the shape of the pattern that counts. That's why I said I wished they included a pattern when they were built.
I don't know why they don't. They obviously run a contact pattern before they package them up and decide which line the set will be sold under. It had a marking paint on it when I pulled it out of the package for the 1st time.


Prost!
 

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Discussion Starter #486 (Edited)
Egads, this is testing my patience like nothing has before.

I mangled the oil slinger trying to pry out the carrier after I mistakenly had too much preload.

I bent it back thinking at least I can finish getting the numbers for the final install. I get to getting backlash down correctly and found a .003 to a .0075 backlash jump from consecutive teeth that didn't measure this way before. I ordered a new baffle and slinger and while I was at it: I just ordered more ring gear bolts. I'm gonna pull it back off and see what the hell is going on under there.
I'm done for the night and gonna start fresh tomorrow on the D44HD while I wait for parts to show up on Friday afternoon for this.... 🤬🤬🤬
 

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Discussion Starter #487
So not sure how dumb of a question this is.

Does pinion preload influence gear backlash or gear pattern at all?

I am thinking not, but I thought I would ask anyway. I am under the impression that they do not affect each other.
 

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If your pinion is bent, yes it could affect backlash, but I don't think pinion preload, would.
When I found out my master install kit didn't include the slinger or baffle, I ordered extras. Hindsight is 20/20. But if I was you. I would order extras. I think you are wise to remove the ring gear and check for flatness. If you have a buddy in a machine shop, he can check both for flatness. Or maybe lend you a set of parallels, which are precision ground straight edges. Take a few breaths, have a beer and relax. You got this!
 

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Discussion Starter #489 (Edited)
When I found out my master install kit didn't include the slinger or baffle, I ordered extras. I think you are wise to remove the ring gear and check for flatness.
I probably could have gotten away with using what I had, using the old slinger from the previous install, or get a new one on the way. I have a ton to do over the next week and a half, and spending this long on one axle got frustrating. I also have new shims on the way. After this many times running a pattern, the shims are getting worked: especially the outer pinion shims. It's probably a good thing to take a break on it and focus on something else for a bit. Lessons learned and I have numbers that will make it a quick finish when I get the parts in.

I'm hoping the D44 won't take too long. The pinion is already set, it is just a matter of getting the right pattern there, and it will be ready to drop in. Really glad I had done most of the work on it last year, and hope to spend the extra time tomorrow working on the D30's axle shafts, ball joints, and knuckles before FedEx shows up with the extra parts.

Back to it
 

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Discussion Starter #490 (Edited)
Just found out today, I am officially unemployed for the next four weeks!!

This regear and frame improvements are sucking up a ton of time. I stalled out on the D30 and D44 waiting for parts. I'll get back to them once I get the front end stiffeners burned in, scuffed, and painted with some POR-15. I also need the time to do these frame stiffeners right; Man, are they a PITA! I've already had to drill out and clearance a little bit in spots. Gonna go slow and steady with these...

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Good thing I got laid off, for I have some patch panels coming for the rockers on the yeti. Just Empty Every Pocket! (y)

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1993-1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rocker Panel, Passenger Side

I thought I was only gonna have to patch a 2" x 2" section on the driver's side, egads, that's one helluva gash... The passenger side wasn't all that bad, but I figured: "While I'm at it....might as well." I got them on sale for a decent price point. We will see how long they last. This rot is only about four years worth of winter magnesium chloride driving.

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Discussion Starter #491
After I ordered parts the other day, I spent some time with my brother's garage. I had a helluva hard time trying to get the knuckles into a drillable position on his drill press but to no avail. So, I knocked out drilling out a new lug pattern in the new rotors.

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I didn't find out that Iron Rock Offroad sells them pre-drilled until after I had already bought these. So I knew that if I messed 'em up, it was easy to get a pair if I needed them. They turned out pretty good. The old rotors fit into the backside of the WJ rotors. About an extra 10-20% increase in surface area, along with the larger pads, and an extra caliper cylinder. I'm gonna have some good stopping power when this is all done. I had an ABS light get more, and more frequent until it just came on right after every start. I am currently afraid that I may have to tear apart the ABS controller to re-solder the circuit board. I did find some hefty chunks of metal stuck to the surface side of the magnets a few days back while ripping the old D30 out. I have my fingers crossed that is the only issue with the controller.

With the old rotor fitting into the rear of the new rotor, All one need do is to measure out the median position for the first hole. After drilling out that one, the old rotor becomes a drill jig. Just need something to keep the new hole lined up while you run through the next four holes. The factory 4.5 X 5 pattern hole is metric. I'm thinking it's 15mm, just shy of 5/8". So with the wheel hub studs being fairly smaller than the 15mm hole. I started out with a pilot hole, followed by a 9/16" hole (I didn't have a metric drill bit) and then I countersunk about 1/8" with the 5/8" bit. She came out mint!

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I'll post up the wheel hub fitment pictures when I get closer to finishing the brake conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #492
Damn welding isn't easy. I've been told it's a young mans profession. I am starting to understand why. I am gonna be sore tomorrow. I'm not a contortionist and I've strecthed in some ways that I've not done in a very long time.

All tacked in and ready to stitch in.

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Discussion Starter #494
nice project. I wish you success
Thanks! Welcome to the forums from Indiana just outside of Chi-raq.



So I got tired of grinding excessive welding and went back to the D30 today. When we last saw our dynamic duo, the joker was mentally torturing our heroes with uneven backlash. This dastardly feat had to be understood and our friend has resolved to understand why:

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The backlash range where everything was wonky were pictures #1, and numbers 6-9 in order(6-9 being the last four)
 

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Discussion Starter #496
So I ran a rasp over the carrier and the ring gear surfaces. I found a spot of slightly higher elevation on the ring gear. I am not sure if it was just the residual areas of grind/milling on the backside of the gear. You know those ever so tiny lines that are still there on a brand new metal mating surface of the part in question. I am unsure if there is just a slightly higher section there, or just too much red Loctite, or a combination of both. Also, you can see a slight amount of residual Loctite around the ring gear bolt holes on the surface that mates with the carrier. These milling marks I speak of, allowed enough room for the Loctite to squeeze in between the ring gear and the carrier.

Currently, I am of the belief that it was mostly the red Loctite on those aforementioned ring gear bolts affecting my backlash issues, and the small high area on the ring gear face. Also, by the way, the Loctite that comes with the rebuild kit was not very good at all. I did not need any heat to remove these bolts. Just had to turn slightly over the required torque on each bolt to remove them. I thought I was going to have the hardest time with it. I've had an experience before with a pinion nut the last D30 I messed with and it took an incredible amount of force to remove that pinion nut with the Loctite on it.

With this being said, how much is enough/proper amount of red Loctite on each bolt? On the bolt or in the hole?

Opinions? Comments? Questions? please...
 

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The a dab on the bolt threads. no need to slather it on.
 

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Just a dab will do ya. I usually just run a thin line down the side of the bolt about the length of the thread engagement. I looks like you went a little heavy. Given the amount you used, if that was in fact high strength (red). You would have broken those bolts without heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #499
Thanks guys!

Yeah, I used the stuff that was in the rebuild kit.

I just ordered new ring bolts for the D44, and gonna go back and do those right as well.

I appreciate it. Hope things are getting better...
 

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