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Great so the race is on as to who drives out of the garage first, you or me!
I think when I redid my axles and reinstalled the front, I had the coils on the axle via the retainers. So I had to approach the jeep at an angle from the front and then wiggle it all into place, yes it was a pain by myself. I needed 3 more hands to hold everything where I wanted it.
 

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Discussion Starter #542
Great so the race is on as to who drives out of the garage first, you or me!
With the way things have been going, It'll be you by a day or two. Roadblocks around every corner on this part of the project. They're forcing me to use the ole noggin' to get things done correctly. I had to use a floor jack to press in the upper rubber bump stop on one side. The new steering mounts got in the way and I was just too weak to get it in there. I couldn't get a good swing on it with a 5# BFH; even with a large socket and a few extentions. So I just rolled the jack under the extentions. My arms were grateful, and are sore as all get out today.

I needed 3 more hands to hold everything where I wanted it.
Thank gawd for floor jacks, otherwise, I wouldn't have gotten it up last night!

(We are still doing phrasing right?)

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Discussion Starter #543 (Edited)
So I am looking for opinions on this next bit.

I may have to splice in my new ABS sensor lines to add some length to the actual cable on both front sides. The ZJ sensor cable is about 12-18" longer than the WJ sensor cables. I might get creative with the routing of the cable for the ZJ one used to wrap around the shock while attached to the axle housing and then routed up by the brake lines and into the engine bay where it connects just under the brake booster and by the PCM on the opposite side. Below is a comparison of the wiring diagrams from the WJ(left) and ZJ(right) followed by the ABS Sensor cable plugs.

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WJ (left) and ZJ (right)


My question I want opinions on is this:

If you look at the wiring between the WJ and ZJ in the above schematic, it would appear that the polarity of the sensor wiring is exactly the opposite of the ZJ design(thanks a lot engineers, way to go you overpaid chumps!). Also note that even that the color codes are the same between the two.

When and IF i go through and splice the wiring to add length to the cables, DO I SWAP THE WIRES GOING TO THE BOOT/PLUG?

Do I even need to swap them at all?


As I understand it, the magnet only interrupts the flow of the voltage flowing through the circuit. I currently do not think I even need to change anything at all(provided I do not need any extra length in the cables). A circuit is just a circuit and the only difference between the two circuits is the different colors of the wires. Essentially I have two wires going to a magnet and in it's most basic form the signal is gonna react the same whether or not I swap the wires.

I had spoken with CT99XJ about his six point oh ZJ and his swapping over the WJ sensors. He just spliced it in(although not saying how he did, betting he wouldn't remember anyway), and his works. So the compatibility of the WJ magnet design vs ZJ magnet design is a known in our equation.

I just thought I would put this out there and hopefully someone could point out something that perhaps I am not understanding or missing here....

Penny for your thoughts? (no rush here :ROFLMAO:)
 

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I think the wheel speed sensors are all Hall Effect sensors. which read a change in the magnetic resistance as the tone ring passes. ABS systems are really just reading the pulses from each wheel, passes it to the computer, and depending on how complicated the system is( some use yaw sensors, throttle and braking inputs) activates the ABS motor to pulse the brakes to the wheel that is turning either faster (spinning) or slower (locked up). The ABS Module sends reference voltage to the wheel sensors, the voltage returned is what the ABS module uses to determine the wheel speed. I don't think it cares what polarity the wires are, as long as all your tone rings are the same. I hope I didn't overcomplicate that!. Any one else care to comment?
 

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Sorry, I'm non-abs. No advice here!
 

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Discussion Starter #546
I hope I didn't overcomplicate that!.
Nope. Thanks for the knowledge maing!

Got the steering lined up and the rough alignment done. (58 6/16" front and 58 7/16" behind) Gonna take her in after the rear is all reassembled for a proper computer alignment.

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I also noticed I likely have a slightly bent sway bar. I'm not sure how that happened. I'm still waiting on some penetrating oil to seep into the sway bar links for proper sway bar attitude.

In the mean time on to the brakes!

Hopefully gonna drive it outta the garage here in a few hours. Getting excited....
 

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Discussion Starter #547
I ran into another road block.

The 1/4" spacer for the proper alignment for the axle shaft u-joint causes an extra 1/4" spacing issues for the Akebono brake support bracket that mounts to the knuckle. I find it to be about 3/8" to 7/16" and have to find some new M12 x 1.75 x 60mm or 70mm bolts for said bracket. There just was not enough meat to grip into for the standard 50mm bolt to grab onto. Oh well, I figured there would be something keeping me from finishing tonight. I am also still a little iffy on my 15x10 wheels with 4" of back spacing. I am seeing other builds online that are right about the same amount of backspacing having to grind down the caliper. Fortunately I have some wheel spacers, but really, really do not want to use them. I just couldn't justify buying new wheels AND new tires when I just bought new rubber two years ago. She's got plenty of meat on those KO2's.

I'm about 3 hours of work away from driving out of the garage.

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Discussion Starter #548
Anyone who has or is about to install these type of sway bar disconnect links, I have one word for you: ANTI-SEIZE...

After two days of messing with them with a torch and penetrating oil, I finally have them: apart, brushed with anti-seize, cleaned out, lubed up with new grease, and ready to go back in. Egads that sucked... 🤬


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I knew you jinxed yourself when you said 3 hours lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #550
I knew you jinxed yourself when you said 3 hours lol.
yup, went to finish up the passenger side brake caliper to find that my pattern I drilled a few weeks ago was not good enough. I had to stop and borrow a drill bit. I just have to bleed and retorque everything. Hopefully back at it soon...
 

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Discussion Starter #551
So wondering if there is a minimum clearance needed on a wheel and a caliper. There can't be much more than a 1/16" to .010" clearance in these pictures.

Am I a lucky SOB or do I put the 2" spacers on it? I'm leaning towards not, and probably gonna run it until I notice a problem. Unless there is something here I am not privy to?

Thoughts?

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Hmm, if it were me, I might look for a 1/4" spacer or something. Just a small spacer to help me sleep at night.
 

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That's a tad too close for comfort for me. I don't know if they will rub under normal driving conditions after everything heats up and expands. And man, I would hate to grind on those shiny new calipers. Spacers may be your best option. I ran 1.25" spacers on mine for years. I doubt you need that much, but I don't know how thin they go. Those look like steel wheels, so maybe just a 1/4" spacer would work. And still leave plenty of thread on the wheel stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #554 (Edited)
I was also thinking that once the brake pads start to get worn the caliper may shift farther out depending on the wear. We shall see on the heat expansion and if they get scuffed up a little, so be it.

Although, I'm gonna have a look with the 2" wheel spacers later today. The jury is still out.

I do appreciate the input.

The thinner sized spacers that are out there in the aftermarket (1/4"-1/2") are intended for cars and not trucks/4x4s nor Offroad. If I were to get something 1 1/4" are the smallest. With the spacers I have at 2", I'm not sure I can justify buying some smaller ones: 3/4" is not that much of a difference. I suppose I can sell those 2" ones and make up the difference... :unsure: hmmmmm...
 

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Discussion Starter #555 (Edited)
So I ordered a pair of Spidertrax 1 1/4" spacers today. The spacers I have are not hub-centric and fit okay but I just didn't like that they weren't hub-centric. They probably would've been fine, but I wasn't gonna put my life let alone someone else's at risk using second rate spacers. Besides, what is another $100 on top of the roughly 3k I've spent on both axles and other repairs?

I'm currently running with the normal backspacing and no grinding thus far. Unfortunately, the ABS light is still on.

So with that, I pulled her out of the garage tonight to the sounds of brake adjustment ticks, but she quieted down after a quick run down the street. Outside of the break in for the gears, the new spacers, painting the trackbar, and computer alignment: the front is basically done.

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I'm cracking several beers and gathering up the needed courage to do it all again to the rear D44. Thank gawd it should be much simpler. Thinking I'll take the day off tomorrow and chill.

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Discussion Starter #556 (Edited)
Been working on finishing up the D44 re-gear. Figured out total carrier movement and got my starting numbers, and then ran a pattern. The pinion needs to move in at least .030" for the next pattern, and at least I know where I am at.

Currently, I am shimming everything under the bearings until I get within a pattern or two of finished. They don't make the bearing outer shims small enough to deal with this gear set, and hopefully by the time the pinion is at the correct depth: I will be able to get one sandwiched in between the NRGS bearing cup and the housing. I am debating about taking some of the outer shims I won't be using to a machine shop to have it ground down to close to final size. I figure that I probably should have shims on both sides of the bearing race/cup. Lord knows how it might shift after I get the next to final numbers... IDK, I'm thinking about probable solutions that the shim manufacturers didn't deem important enough to provide some smaller outer shims (.060" or .080") for the D44HD/A's. Currently, the smallest outer shim I have is .115"

Perhaps, and most likely, I am completely wrong and will be able to use one of the outer shims under the NRGS cup... 🤞 🤞 🤞

Total carrier movement (with .004" preload) = .234"

Run 'AA' :

Inner Pinion Shim = .002"
Pinion Preload = 24 in lbs
NRGS Bearing Shim = .103"
RGS Bearing Shim = .131"
Backlash = .005"-.008"

Drive Pattern:

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Coast Pattern:

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Discussion Starter #557
Run 'BB' :

Inner Pinion Shim = .034"
Pinion Preload = 30 in lbs
NRGS Bearing Shim = .111"
RGS Bearing Shim = .123"
Backlash = .006"-.008"

Drive Pattern:

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Coast Pattern:

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Discussion Starter #558
Run 'CC' :

Inner Pinion Shim = .0595"
Pinion Preload = 38 in lbs
NRGS Bearing Shim = .121"
RGS Bearing Shim = .113"
Backlash = .007"

Drive Pattern:

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Coast Pattern:

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So, I think that is as deep as I am gonna go, and start to pull it back out a bit. I'm thinking that final pinion depth will be somewhere between .048" - .053"
 

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Discussion Starter #559
IDK, I'm thinking about probable solutions that the shim manufacturers didn't deem important enough to provide some smaller outer shims (.060" or .080") for the D44HD/A's. Currently, the smallest outer shim I have is .115"

Perhaps, and most likely, I am completely wrong and will be able to use one of the outer shims under the NRGS cup... 🤞 🤞 🤞
It looks like I was wrong and there are adequate outer shims to use for both sides of the carrier. If the numbers I am estimating for the final range of the shim stacks hold true: I will only have to shim slightly under one or both of the bearings.

This is a huge relief. Thank gawd I was wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #560 (Edited)
Run 'DD' :

Inner Pinion Shim = .0505"
Pinion Preload = 30 in lbs
NRGS Bearing Shim = .113"
RGS Bearing Shim = .121"
Backlash = .007"

Drive Pattern:

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Coast Pattern:

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