[pizzaman3872]

Sye, dom drive shafts. Chromoly axle shafts trans and tcase skids rear bed armor. Front axle truss steinjager steering build a new track bar. Bed spare tire mount. On board air if I can get it to fit and power inverter setup and rock sliders. July of 2021 I want to be able to tow my Jeep to Utah or California to do some better wheeling. when I go I'm going to hit up anyone in the area on here that wants to show me the area.

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[Gluckmysock]

I know when I put my stiffeners in, I painted then with weld through primer, and had about a half dozen C-clamps and a couple jacks to get everything to fit tight then tacked them in.

 

[DaingMaing]

July of 2021 I want to be able to tow my Jeep to Utah or California to do some better wheeling. when I go I'm going to hit up anyone in the area on here that wants to show me the area.

Hit me up when your close to heading out, perhaps JandDGreens and I can meet you somewhere in CO or Utah. I live about three hours from Moab in the mountains. There is plenty to do there or around here as well. Overland, Mountain Passes, or even some boulder crawling if you want!

I know when I put my stiffeners in, I painted then with weld through primer, and had about a half dozen C-clamps and a couple jacks to get everything to fit tight then tacked them in.

For me, I'd love to just slap em on, clamp em down and go. This set needs to be bend differently to fit correctly, the centyer section rails are bent too tightly, when opened up slightly require other things to be re-bent, and then clamped down once tacked in on some spots. Overall, for the price I paid, I kinda would expect minimal adjustments and just like it sounds you did: slap it on and weld. It just isn't what I would have expected.

 

[Gluckmysock]

Mine were shipped flat but with cuts in the right spot so bending was easy and straight forward. I would drop them an email, and at least share your frustration. Maybe they shipped the wrong ones?

 

[DaingMaing]

Mine were shipped flat but with cuts in the right spot so bending was easy and straight forward.

These are pre-bent with a large hydraulic brake. The accuracy of the bends in the center section are off. The primary 1st bend one would make with such a piece of 10ga metal was not far enough apart, so that when I go to slip it on to the rail it does not sit flush with the bottom facing side of the frame rail. It's about 1/8 to 1/4" short of being flush, so I have to take the sections to my press and hope I can open them up slightly so they sit flush on the rail face. Then after tacking them in, I would need to clamp down on the outer faces of the section to get it back in place.

I'll hand it to him, the way this is bent and not cut then welded in place, will be stronger IMHO(I'm not that good at welding yet), but to have to get this into the correct shape when it should already be there is frustrating to say the least. Especially at the price tag these come in at.

I would drop them an email, and at least share your frustration. Maybe they shipped the wrong ones?

I'll see how difficult it's gonna be. It could be just a few pulls on the press and be mint, and then I'll be good to go. I am just frustrated after the front section had an oval window cutout be about 1 1/2" off after everything was bent into lace and in the correct spot, two of the rear sections having the incorrect cuts in them, and now the center section has this bend issue as well as another oval frame window being off by about 1/2" - 3/4" to where it should be afteer being in the correct interlocking place: Not to mention the amount of trimming I've had to do to on every piece. Ultimately, it is really only cutting a little here and there, but the price tag of these stiffeners really leaves something to be desired.

It speaks to the design and the effort by the person making them. It appears to be a "meh, it's good enough" situation and at that price: It leaves me a bit frustrated. I paid a fair price I think for something I should be able to just slap on, clamp in place, and tack, and then finish welding them in: however, I find myself having to do excessive bending and cutting to get this perfect.

Oh, nah, these are the correct parts listed and pictured on the website.

 

[Gluckmysock]

If you spent 300-400 for those, they should fit, period! To many little things to convince me they have a decent QA department. I feel for you bro, I really do.

 

[pizzaman3872]

Making me think when I do mine I should just build them.

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[DaingMaing]

So I finished burning the driver's side in. This channel stiffener is a beefcake. PITA to work with, but once I got it in there: I got an instant feeling of gratification. They were worth the soreness over the last couple of days of bending and BFH-ing with a 4lb sledge. I can't wait to get on the trails. I'll be spoending a week in Sedona after I get settled in back home in CO. I was already looking at trails that I couldn't do the last time I was there in 2015. It will be fun. If anyone in the four corners or Phoenix area cares to join lemme know.-

Before:

After:

I am not that great of a welder, but I am making progress. It will look a lot better once I get the paint on it.

Got the passenger side all cleaned up and ready.

I got the 1st part of the passenger side tacked on, and decided that was enough for the night...

Hopefully I can finish up the passenger side tomorrow night, and get the metal etch on it by bed time. The tracking number for the new rear adjustable IRO track bar says that on Tuesday I can drive it. Iron Rock Offroad is swamped with home bound jeepers making improvements. I emailed them yesterday and today they replied to tell me that 400 other people were in front of me. If anyone is thinking about a purchase from them and need it on a timeline, be sure to put your order in about 8-10 days before you need it.

On Sunday, I hope to be painting the rails, the front track bar, and get the tail light guards painted as well. While the coats are drying, I am looking to tear apart the rockers, get the internal rust mitigated(as well as the lower parts of the doors), and ready to tack in for Monday. We shall see how far I can get.

 

[pizzaman3872]

Hit me up when your close to heading out, perhaps JandDGreens and I can meet you somewhere in CO or Utah. I live about three hours from Moab in the mountains. There is plenty to do there or around here as well. Overland, Mountain Passes, or even some boulder crawling if you want!



For me, I'd love to just slap em on, clamp em down and go. This set needs to be bend differently to fit correctly, the centyer section rails are bent too tightly, when opened up slightly require other things to be re-bent, and then clamped down once tacked in on some spots. Overall, for the price I paid, I kinda would expect minimal adjustments and just like it sounds you did: slap it on and weld. It just isn't what I would have expected.

Daingmaing I will let you know. I didn't see this even till today. I went and looked at a 2500 dodge. If it goes through I'll post up in my build. Dealer was closed today just waiting on them.

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[DaingMaing]

Daingmaing I will let you know. I didn't see this even till today. I went and looked at a 2500 dodge. If it goes through I'll post up in my build. Dealer was closed today just waiting on them.

Nice, always fun to have a new haul toy. Congrats!

 

[DaingMaing]

Brown showed up today with a desperately needed part:

The parts and frame are all etched and ready to paint:

Looking forward to pulling her out of the garage later on tonight.

 

[DaingMaing]

So it's been about a week since the last update.

I got her all buttoned up and got her on the road. I've been breaking in the gears, and I think that it is going okay. I don't like some of the noises I'm hearing, but waiting till after the 500 mile break in is over to investigate if they keep persisting. I just finished this evening at 250miles, and have been doing about 50miles a day. I think I am gonna cut that back a little bit, and probably stay off the highways after this evening.

I had been running it just in 2WD for the 1st 100 miles and now have incorporated the front differential as well. I drove it in 4wd for about 15 miles at about 35mph for the 1st run last night. Tonight, I ran it for about 25 miles at highway speeds (< 60mph). The rear gear set is sounding quite smooth by now, but the front still has some rough gear noise. I am also having that 4th gear frequency oscillating vibration between 45 and 60. I am wondering if my front drive shaft has a bad U joint in it. When I rebuilt it the last time about four years ago, I remember not having enough U joints to redo the axle mating joint. I just rebuilt the double-cardan joint, and left the last u joint in place. I am hoping that the majority of my bad vibes are from that u joint. I have them on the way from Rock-auto in the morning. Regardless, the vibration is still there(not as prominent as before), but I think it could be coming from the front DS and not the OD unit like I had been thinking. The angles on the front DS and the rear DS are less aggressive(?) since changing to these axles. In an attempt to quelch the bads vibes, I'll be changing out both rear DS joints, and the one up front: Hopefully, that will stop the bad vibes.

I will be posting up pictures of the final result of the frame stiffening/plating eventually, for I just haven't spent the time to snap the photos.

All in all I think I am breaking in the gears correctly, and I have been feeling the temps of the diff housings at the end of the 50 mile run every day. They have never been to the point I have had to take my hand off of them because I would have gotten burnt. (I have a high tolerance for heat thanks to the cooking profession) Although, I have to admit it might have been that hot in the diff. I don't think that the internal temp ever exceeded ~260*F. However, I would venture to guess the housings were probably in the 110-155*F temp range when I am feeling them at the end of the runs. I am guessing that the internal temps would have been in the 180-220 range. I am not sure at what temperature GL-5 Gear Oil breaks down at. I could be wrong, but I am of the opinion that most motor oils burn at around 300*F... what that may equate to in a gear oil I am not certain.

If there is something glaringly wrong here, please say something.

After I get some pictures of the frame plating, the wrench-a-thon continues and then on to: the rocker panel replacement, door rust mitigation, ABS controller repair, and the sun roof track repair.

 

[XJSuperman]

Glad to hear she's driving again!

 

[DaingMaing]

The wrench fest continues after getting roughly 400 miles on the gear break in:

Good lawd why does every single body panel inside and out have to come off to get at these rocker panels? I'm gonna have to put the ass end up in the air and take the wheels off to get it done right come Sunday. Such a PITA to do this, and I am hoping it lasts for five or six years. We shall see, and hopefully I'll be doing some boatsides at some point in the not too distant future.

A quick visual on where to cut:

I am dumbfounded about the amount of rust, old coatings, and dirt that piled up in there. The driverside was rough, and about three full dustpans full of shite. The passenger side was about four?!? sheesh...

The driver's side has already been etched, and waiting for some POR-15. Unfortunately, I had to stop on the passenger side just short of getting all of the excess spot welded pieces off. I started out drilling them out, but quickly changed over to the angle grinder. It makes such quicker work with the job and doesn't leave a large hole to fill with the welder.

Got to take the day tomorrow and seal the driveway, but hopefully I'll be welding patch panels on come Sunday early. I also have been thinking about changing up yeti's color scheme with the addition of these new rocker panels: some hood black out vinyl for extra horse powah boost!

 

[XJSuperman]

I think I would have said F that, and found a new plan lol. I already know my fenders will have to be cut off, the nasty little torx fasteners are all junk and rusted solid. Then the doors? Oh hell no. Good on you for being so motivated. I really do hope it lasts forever after the hell you've gone through so far.

 

[Gluckmysock]

Woot Woot

 

[DaingMaing]

Final pictures of the frame stiffening work:

That last panoramic is crappy. I might try to get a better one and replace later when I get some time. Also some of the rust remediation under the rocker panels.

A few pictures on the rocker panel install since the last update:

 

[DaingMaing]

Then on to the finished panels. Gawd it was a PITA to remove all of these panels but I think it was worth it(at least now anyways). The final look is good. This time through I used a different paint. RBS makes it in Satin Black, and sold at Napa's everywhere I believe. Apparently, they used to be apart of POR 15's original company then they left and started this product. The consistentcy is different and the finish is a bit lower quality then the POR 15, but in a pinch and you can;t wait a week to get your hands on a pint of POR 15: it will do the job me thinks.

 

[DaingMaing]

So I bought some hood black out vinyl... (stickers essentially) for yeti's newer black and white look. I am trying to stick with that classic storm trooper color scheme. Also some new vent shades for the windows(long time coming, haven't had a full set since I broke out a window almost four years ago now)

I have still yet to finish the last bit of drilling for the rocker panel bush wacker flares, and still gonna black out the license plate panel on the lift-gate, re-freshen the black bush wacker flares with some Flood's Penetrol, but she's 95% all back together and still in need of a bath, but.....

I'll take some glamor shots in Sedona when it's all done in a few weeks.

The hood stickers add at least 20 extra horsepower....

Also really great at covering up rusted stone nicks and ding marks! I am satisfied with the look, fit and finish of the latest work. All fuzzy inside n' stuff...

 

[Gluckmysock]

Damn bro! She really looking good. Daddy likes!