what 35 inch tire is safe...
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Any hardcore mud tire is gonna be heavy, but a HP dana 30 should have no problems. The newer HP 30s are as strong as the old 44s. If you don't wanna run too heavy a tire though, why not Cooper STTs? Or Goodyear MTRs?
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Are you wanting something aggressive for off-road use, like a Swamper? Or just some normal 35s?
For normal 35s I'd recommend just about any 35x12.5" tires, like the MT/R, BFG MT series, the MT MTZs, etc. The Toyo MTs are a 35x13.5 and are pretty heavy from what I've read, but not enough to really cause problems.
If you're looking for something more along the lines of Swampers, I'd recommend going with bias ply and running them on alloy rims, not steelies. This will keep the weight down. Our trail tires are a set of 36x13.5" IROCs, bias ply, and we run them on some 15x9" TrailReady alloy beadlocks. They're only 2 lbs heavier than our 35x12.5" GY MT/R radials on 15x8" black steel rims.
Personally I wouldn't run a 35x14.5" of ANY tire. Our 36x13.5s are square enough as it is, I couldn't imagine running something shorter and wider. Pitbulls seem to be more of a mudder tire to me though, not really something designed for rocks (that's just my impression from seeing them though).
For normal 35s I'd recommend just about any 35x12.5" tires, like the MT/R, BFG MT series, the MT MTZs, etc. The Toyo MTs are a 35x13.5 and are pretty heavy from what I've read, but not enough to really cause problems.
If you're looking for something more along the lines of Swampers, I'd recommend going with bias ply and running them on alloy rims, not steelies. This will keep the weight down. Our trail tires are a set of 36x13.5" IROCs, bias ply, and we run them on some 15x9" TrailReady alloy beadlocks. They're only 2 lbs heavier than our 35x12.5" GY MT/R radials on 15x8" black steel rims.
Personally I wouldn't run a 35x14.5" of ANY tire. Our 36x13.5s are square enough as it is, I couldn't imagine running something shorter and wider. Pitbulls seem to be more of a mudder tire to me though, not really something designed for rocks (that's just my impression from seeing them though).
Well...
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I had a truetrac, a limited slip. And 35x12.5 BFG M/Ts. Which are basically the lightest tire around. Given the amount of time it took me to do this, well, lets just say it wasn't ment to work. And I don't think having it open would have saved it for much longer.
Honestly, a D30 to me is only good for 33s.
I had a truetrac, a limited slip. And 35x12.5 BFG M/Ts. Which are basically the lightest tire around. Given the amount of time it took me to do this, well, lets just say it wasn't ment to work. And I don't think having it open would have saved it for much longer.
Honestly, a D30 to me is only good for 33s.
um wut?
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The HP 30s in the JKs are supposedly as strong as the old 44 fronts. Or so I've been told by my buddy with a 4-door Rescue Green JK on 37x12.50x17 Cooper STTs on Punisher Teflon coated wheels. I've seen him break many a thing on that Jeep, but never the D30.
which is relevant to XJs how? if the shafts are the same as the JK44s he'll be blowing up ring gears before anything. Its still a D30, and 37s on a 30 is stupid.
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x2 :thumbsup:
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Relevant b/c JK 30s bolt into XJs will little modification, and he never said where his "new" 30 came from. So just offering up information. Please, excuse me. :bow:
Good choice with the KM2s, they're getting great reviews and a veteran wheeler in my local club just got a set and they GO GO GO!
Good choice with the KM2s, they're getting great reviews and a veteran wheeler in my local club just got a set and they GO GO GO!
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if by little modification u mean changing everything on it, as well as running a different bolt pattern AND width than stock in that axle, then yes..they go in that easy. :thumbsup:
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Your buddy is kinda right, but kinda not. The only thing on a JK D30 that might be stronger than on an XJ or TJ D30 is the u-joints, assuming the JK D30 uses the same u-joints as the JK Rubicon D44, and I don't know if that's the case or not. Otherwise, it's no stronger (or weaker) than the D30s in our XJs. The housing isn't any stronger, the axle shafts aren't any bigger (the outers might be), and the balljoints aren't any bigger (to my knowledge). It does have larger brakes though.
The Rubicon D44 is a different story though. It uses what I'd call a 3/4-ton u-joint and it's got 32-spline outer shafts. Still uses the same size axle tubes as the D30 though, which is to say it's basically the same size axle tubes as the XJ/TJ D30.
Actually the only thing that really has to be changed is the spacing on the coil buckets. And probably the swaybar endlinks. I don't think the UCA or LCA mounts have to be moved.
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Steering.
I havent read that the brackets didnt need movin for the arms, but either way, youre still looking at a width/bolt pattern issue on top of the other stuff involved in the axle swap that doesnt make it an easy bolt in IMO.
the XJ front 44s from where the hell ever are SUPER hard to find. and HP to boot.
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