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what did you do to your xj/zj/wj today?

2115856 Views 25108 Replies 764 Participants Last post by  Ralph77
washed and waxed :bow:
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My buddies monstrosity finally moved under it's own power for the first time in god knows how long...41 willys with a 454 bored 40 over ported and polished, running military magnetic axles on 44's with if I remember correctly 6:12 gears... it scares me
They didn't make those in 41, but I like it anyway :rofl:
I avoided all that by putting my hood vents here

At highway speeds that is the point of greatest vacuum, where the air breaks over the hood. This pulls a slight vacuum on the back of the radiator and helps cool the engine and doesn't expose any other stuff to the weather
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The rare and elusive CJ10
I hear ya. In truth most companies don't market a product I would want for aftermarket steering
OK, so you are doing under the knuckle? What size are the threads on the rod ends? I use some offset rod ends from Tereflex that come in two configurations. Both are one ton ball size, but the tapered studs are standard and one ton size. They are beefy and you may not be able to use stock wheels without a spacer.
Nice parking place :D
That does look nice :thumbsup:
Got the rear axle out of the Comanche, dropped it off to get rebuilt with 4:88's and ARB! View attachment 156914

View attachment 156922
Somebody got his taxes back :rofl:
The finer details are Def worth paying attention to. The rear axle must be a 10.5 since it has disc brakes, front end has ball joints, and with the orientation of the leaf perches, it is most definitely a hp dana 50. I am going to have to find some parts for these. The guy said that the locals helped themselves to the front hubs, otherwise they'd be there, they also snagged a rotor from the rear. ****ing ***holes. Oh well, this project may be complete in a few years anyway, lol

View attachment 161714

View attachment 161722

*Edit* further research tells me that I have a dana 50 front end, sterling 10.5 rearend. This is accurate information based on the numbers I have found on the front axle tag. Kinda sucks it's not a d60, but for $25, I can't complain, the gearing options are also there for these axles, so what the hell.
A guy I know tried using this front end on an XJ. Check the spring perches. The bottom ones will be a good 3" too wide, and cannot be changed because of the pumpkin. It have him coil problems in the front
Well I'm looking at my shock picture above. Anybody know why my passenger side coil is sitting crooked? Could that be the cause of my DW? My axle being crooked that is
There are two issues there. One is that the axle is too far back. The links need to be a bit longer. If they are fixed, they you live with it. The next is castor. If you check it, you will find the castor is 1.5° more positive on the passenger side, which tilts that coil bucket more forward and makes that bow more noticeable on that side. It came that way from the factory. You can live with it or you can get a special upper ball joint from Moog to offset it that much and make it equal
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Finished the first of the door panels. Not bad being from scratch :)
Oh I like that
I have a Rubicon express 1600 track bar and bracket. I think that's good enough. All my suspension besides my shocks is Rubicon express. I am running a re 3.5 inch super flex lift, Rusty's tie rod conversion, zj drag link, and I have replaced a bunch of stuff in the last year. As soon as the rubber bushings are out of back order, I will swap one in but there is no play whatsoever. I'm down to tre's, and that bushing
I think I would be looking at the tie rod conversion. What does it look like?
Like that. I don't have any play at all in my tie rods plus they're pricey.
I was more interested in design. Looks like you might have a conversion of some type. Can I see a pic of the whole thing?
I don't think you will notice any difference. Those only turn against each other when going around corners. One thing you might try when you put it back together is some black power punch in the oil. Not a cure all, but it has moly in it that will fill small pores in the metal, the source of your noise
Most of the time that is due to spark plug wires being broke or the boots not insulating enough for some reason
Yeah, yeah a likely story :tonk:
Never wheel without your camera
Very nice. Racks can be had later
Nicest looking Jeep in the stable
Since I had my Jeep torn about halfway down to correct a bunch of little stuff and some blown head gaskets, I redid my battery cables and ran them through the passenger compartment from the batteries in back and through the firewall by the AC drain and ran then to this homegrown buss bar. There is still one more cable from the winch to attach to it, but it beats connecting them together and wrapping it with weather head tape. Hopefully if I get a red hot cat and muffler again, I won't have any more silly problems with welding my undercarriage.

The red cable is from my 250 amp alternator which will be connected directly to the winch stud on the buss bar. Should have plenty of juice for that power hungry Warn

Also had a problem with my power hungry Taurus fan.

You can see the relay on the end has been getting hot even though the relay and pigtail are rated for 50 amps, and not cheap

So I replaced it with a continuous duty solenoid rated at 200 amps. Got tired of carrying spare relays for the fan. The solenoid was actually cheaper than the relay and pigtail. Also added a new relay to that rack for a starter relay and got rid of the old style OEM relay
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Veddy Nice!

Do you put all your pics on photobucket, cause you post on multiple sites?
Thanks, and yes all on photobucket. Makes it easy that way
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