So today I decided to play with the driver's seat.
The power base motors I believe to be shot. Powered them with my little jump box.
That is why I was so glad that the pig tail for the harness that runs over the floor of the Jeep was cut and still attached to the seat base harness itself.
Makes checking it out of the Jeep easy.
The heater in the driver's upright part of the seat works. I got continuity there.
I can't remember where I was supposed to get continuity in the bottom but I did in one place and I think the seat heater might be good.
There is more wiring in the bottom of the heated seat then the upright part.
Oh and remember how I told you guys it was $100 for the seats and probably close to $10 in gas for a total of $110 in my book?
Well I was wrong. Closer to $5 now. I found $4.55 in the driver's seat.
And one Canadian penny which is worth what? 1/2 cent. LOL.
And could be less if there is any money in the passenger seat. MLOL.
Well I discovered something I did not know today.
Or at least I think I did.
Jeep off, headlights still on, and the power door locks will not operate to lock the doors.
Did it a second time just to see.
Well it is either that or my door locks decided to not work and then work a second later
after after I turned off the headlights.
So I guess this is a "What I Did Today So I Could Have More Tool Storage For Tools To Work On My Jeep" post.
Few weeks ago I picked up a Husky middle box. $15 on Offer Up. $4 in gas. It was missing the lock and had stickers
all over it. Not a roller bearing box. But it does match my Husky top and bottom box. And is 18" deep. I picked that up some
time ago for $80. For some reason the bottom is roller bearings and the top is not but they do match so.....
While back I bought a cheap Craftsman bottom box. Missing the key. Couldn't get a key but could buy a lock.
So I buy a lock and then go to clean the box. Well then I found the keys in the bottom of the box. So I had this lock I paid $15
for that was not worth returning. But it also turns out the lock rod is missing too.
So get all the stickers off and clean up the box. Regrease the slides.
I get an 1/8" steel rod and bend it to operate the hooks in the back of the box that go up and down
to lock and unlock the box. The rod was too small for the slot in the lock so I bent it back on itself to
fill the slot and turn when you turn the key.
And all done.
So at least twice a year I try to get out to the 3 boneyards that are customers of the store. Just to look around. Don't even bring tools.
Unfortunately 2 have closed.
So I went this morning to the one remaining one. Since it was the first visit of the new season I brought a box of Dunkin Donuts.
Well it pays to be the guy that use to deliver their auto parts, I still work at the store just don't deliver anymore, and who shows up with donuts.
Some year I might try and put that '96 and down factory rear tire carrier on my '00. I picked up awhile back.
Figured a hard cover spare tire cover would be nicer.
I think those things have a cable lock of some sorts so people can't easily steal the cover. Guessing that is what go through the hole at
the top and the slit at the bottom. You can just make out the hole and slit at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions if you look closely.
A seam has pulled away at the top of it and don't see how it could be fixed easily.
Hey it is not to bad and what can you expect for free. LOL.
Veddy nice! It's hard to tell from the pics about the seam, at least on my phone anyhow. A local upholstery company may be able to fix it.
Speaking of spare tires. I learned something the other day. If you have a spare tire mounted on the rear, let the air out of it. Err ma gerd! Yes, that way it doesn't get hung up on rocks when you go wheeling. I have a big hook in my receiver to hit the rocks and prevent my tire from rubbing and bending the mount, which i have already done once. But the hook also limits you. So if I pull the hook and deflate the tire then I gain those extra few inches. Woot woot.
I will check to see if that can be fixed. Assuming I even use the tire carrier. I like the idea of it but giving up my '98 Grand Cherokee 5.9 tire cover is going to be tough.
I love that thing.
The factory tire carrier I picked up for $100 awhile back. Literally 5 minutes from home.
I did not get all the pieces but believe I got the important ones.
Some guys post that the boneyard is littered with them. Dime a dozen they say.
Never see them around where I live. I only snapped this up not sure of the plan just cause I would probably never see one again so local.
I have come to the realization that I am trying to build the Jeep that Jeep should have built.
The features that I like on a variety of different Jeeps.
Plus whatever accesories, either Mopar or aftermarket, I can find that I like.
The tire carrier you already know about..
I have the parts for the factory tranny cooler.
I have everything I need for the Viper Coil mod.
I have the 16" Icons that might get on the Jeep someday.
I have the parts for the retractable '96 and down cargo cover. See if I can get that to work.
I have an auto dimming rear view mirror I might try and put in. Think it was from a WJ.
I have a version of the retractable under the hood light. Not a XJ/Commanche one but looks really similar.
I think it is a GM one. Some NOS I picked up sometime ago. Plus I have the proper Jeep bracket to mount it up.
Then their is the European rear seat headrest mod that I am still trying to get a handle on. I believe I have all the parts to possibly pull that off.
Not to mention the Up Country supsension and 8.25 factory LSD diff I would like.
And of course might as well do the rear disk brake mod.
Oh and I picked up a Mopar spare tire sub. The sub needs to be refoamed.
And while I have Infinity Tweeters and Speakers installed I want to figure out a way to get the Infinity amp I have hooked up too.
Trying to make things as close to factory as possible.
But more then willing to cheat here and there as long as it is behind the scenes. LOL.
Like how I put in the factory fog lights. Look factory up front and in the passenger compartment.
But wired like any aftermarket ones would be.
New brake pads rotors and fluid on the LJ - they were still factory brakes from 2004. Rotors had never been off, still had the push-on retainer washers on the studs. Pads were down to bare metal. Grindy. Now it stops again!
Working on the rear Napier Flat Fares on the XJ - cutting and folding and sealing and painting and fitting - almost ready to go on soon as flares get painted.
Meanwhile the WJ decided its not going to start anymore. Electrical problem. Power is cutting completely and i get no power to anything with the key in. It will randomly start fine sometimes, other times not even a beep or a blip. sometimes the gauges will twitch and shudder, sometimes i can hear starter and fuel pump relays. Swapped battery with same results. guess i'l have to start hunting gremlins. what do you think, ground problem or ignition cylinder?
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I've had my Cherokee for 13yrs with over 300kmiles and she still runs like new with never any problems until now I went to start it and she wouldn't start and I noticed the ecu was smoking does anyone have any answers that could help?
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