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So I rinsed off the Evapo-Rust gel. After being on there for almost 24 hours.
It did take more of the rust off but not all of it.
And it did do something to the paint on the door.
Maybe it can be buffed out.
In their defense while on Amazon it says safe on most painted surfaces their website does not say that.
I can feel all these little rust spots at the bottom of the door.
I thought they were in better shape but still way better then what I am running.
Which is why I tried cause more then a good detailing is going to be needed with these doors.
So this was a bust. Oh well.
 

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If you can see/feel rust on both the inside and outside, then it was a loss before it began. I think Im going to end up cutting the bottoms off my doors and welding in something heavier. Worth a shot as long as I can get it to stick together and drain moisture. I don't care what it looks like up close because the whole jeep will be getting Monstalined.

I am intrigued by the evaporust gel. Usually gels mean longer time periods. Superglue gel form takes longer to dry, Fluid Film is more of a gel and lasts longer than oil/lube, so I would have guessed that evaporust gel would take longer to work as well. I haven't any experience with their products though. I tend to wirewheel and prime/paint.
 

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It is just surface rust pin points on the outside. Not even paint bubbling. It is rather weird.
And you can't see down that far inside the door so no idea if it is rusting on the inside either.
While I thing the Evapo-Rust liquid is great. I don't think much of the gel.

I always wonder about these:


I tried to find a picture of the back of one of those. I want to see if there is the lip that goes under and comes back up in the inside
that is attached to the inner panel of the door.
 

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So I went back to a previous project.
Now don't get all excited. It is very Mickey Mouse under the seat cover.
But I think I achieved position really good.
The height where to mount the bracket for the headrest to the steel plate under there.
The space away from the steel plate.
In other words the bracket is not mounted to the steel plate. There is a spacer making it sit away from it.
Also the "whiplash distance", about 2", from the back of my head to my headrest for the front seat
is very similar to the distance that the headrest is positioned on the back seat.
Will try to show some more details when I fine tune what is going on under that cover.
Like I said, everybody sing along now, "M-I-C, K-E-Y, M-O-U-S-EEEEEEE" going on under there.
 

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So think I finalized how to how I am going to deal with the headrest. At least on the passenger side and will know better once I put the cover on and put it back in the Jeep.
At the moment just using bolts. 5/16"X2". But for the final product going to use these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W3Z4DKT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2OYCQBOE0Q4XH&th=1

The bolt head would just catch things and whatnot so figure the dome head will be better.
Using the bolt and a washer through the back.
To keep things from pulling through put washers everywhere. The spacer on the left is a 3/8"X3/4". One on the right is 3/8"X1".

Now I had to add an additional washer to the one on the right cause the posts from the headrest were hitting that bar.
Raised it up just enough to clear. Was thinking about cutting them down but did not really want to.
Also those spacers have achieved putting the bracket a proper distance from that plate so everything looks right.
At least IMO.

Now position side to side is really easy to determine from the foam.
Looks like they notched the foam so they could also use it in the European Versions that come with rear seat headrests.
But I had to cut away some more to clear the front seat headrest bracket I am using.

I think I achieved a good height for the bracket to on that plate.
See how it just rides on the inner reinforcement at the top.

With the exception that I wish I drilled the holes a little straighter, see the angle on how things are bolted,
I think it will be OK.
 

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got a set of 4 jk rims WITH rubber for 100 bucks from the local jeep guy. they are winter tires and not very agressive at all, but thats good since im on stock suspension right now xD its a tight fit for sure. Bonus pictures of my lady next to a bronco at the same jeep shop (older pic sorry)
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got a set of 4 jk rims WITH rubber for 100 bucks from the local jeep guy. they are winter tires and not very agressive at all, but thats good since im on stock suspension right now xD its a tight fit for sure. Bonus pictures of my lady next to a bronco at the same jeep shop (older pic sorry)
Leaf Springs
 

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So I figured I would at least do a little more make ready for rear the headrest install.
Separated another headrest bracket from the seat.
In case anybody is interested the cover comes off pretty easy.
Also the upper seat cover is the same. Left or right. At least with the Camel leather seats.
Cause I wanted to see if I could do that and checked the part numbers.
Used the passenger side upper from a second set I had for a driver's side.
So a cutting wheel to separate the bracket from the framework, grinding wheel for the heavy lifting, and flap disc for the finish.
Don't know if I ever showed you guys my $15 6" vise. Craigslist awhile back one town over.
I looked it up. It is an Irwin and only costs about $80 new at Home Depot.
Most people did not like it in the reviews. LOL.
Just wish I had somewhere to bolt it. But being heavier it still works for some situations.
Like this one. MLOL.
 

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Veddy nice!
Mount the vice on a hitch, like I did. Then it's portable and right handy when working on your Jeep😎
 

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Veddy nice!
Mount the vice on a hitch, like I did. Then it's portable and right handy when working on your Jeep😎
I don't have a hitch on my Jeep.
Don't even tow or really ever had the need to.
Though from time to time I glance at the used hitches on Craigslist.
Have to educate myself about them someday. Ratings and whatnot.
Also I have a factory gas skid and always wondered if that would complicate bolting on a hitch.
 

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So manhandling the rear seat yesterday took a little bit out of me.
Working with the angle grinder today did a little number on my hands. They are not really in the best of shape anymore.
So I figured out I would finish out the day with a couple small things.
One of the vents in the wood grain bezel I added to the Jeep would not move to close the vent.
Rotate up and down though. Been meaning to deal with this for sometime now.
They pop easy and looking at it looks like somebody managed to spill coffee in there.
Hot water and a toothbrush be good to go. Hit the other one just because.

Also lately my wired remote for my 6 CD Changer has been kicking off and the CD stops playing.
I can see the backlight in it go off when this happens. Figure go in there and see if anything jumps out at me.
Since I am half way there cause it is behind the radio.
Hoping it is just loose where it plugs into the FM Modulator.
 

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Got to try on some 35s for fit and flex yesterday!

Amazing how they JUST fit in there.
The front squeezes nicely, bump stopped perfectly. Will Barely rub the inner fender well at full stuff and lock, but I might be able to pound them down a bit more.
The rear fit perfectly where I stopped at full height of that trailer ramp we were testing on - another couple inches and It will rub the rear quarters and the side steps I have on. I didn’t hit the bump stops yet, so I’ll have to put some bump stops back on the frame rail to make sure I don’t flex too far, but damn they will fit just fine!
 

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Sweet! I will caution you that once offroad and really twisted, you'll probably see different results. Be ready to bumpstop a little more than what you see here is all Im saying.
 

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I don't have a hitch on my Jeep.
Don't even tow or really ever had the need to.
Though from time to time I glance at the used hitches on Craigslist.
Have to educate myself about them someday. Ratings and whatnot.
Also I have a factory gas skid and always wondered if that would complicate bolting on a hitch.
All those accessories and no hitch? Im disappointed in you Ralph. Go get a hitch, it doesn't matter if you tow or not, they are good protection for the back of the jeep in case of an accident. Also, if needed, a solid towpoint. I know you can make the hitch work with a skid because I've seen a few. I looked at that before I built my own.

Then you'll have a tool holder, bike rack?, flag mount, whatever. Hitches are handy.
 

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Sweet! I will caution you that once offroad and really twisted, you'll probably see different results. Be ready to bumpstop a little more than what you see here is all Im saying.
Yeah, I know I’d be “safer” to just stick with 33s but I just can’t resist. As it is I’ll be good until I get into some very severe positions.
 

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All those accessories and no hitch? Im disappointed in you Ralph. Go get a hitch, it doesn't matter if you tow or not, they are good protection for the back of the jeep in case of an accident. Also, if needed, a solid towpoint. I know you can make the hitch work with a skid because I've seen a few. I looked at that before I built my own. Then you'll have a tool holder, bike rack?, flag mount, whatever. Hitches are handy.
We'll see. LOL.

So more little things today.
We just started selling SEM products through store. Not all of them though.
I contacted them about a week ago. Excellent customer service but I did have to leave a message. Called me back in less the 20 minutes though.
So I am going to try their black. They make 2 types of paint. Color Coat which is more for hard plastic, vinyl, and can even use it to change the color of carpet.
The Classic Coat is more for leather and vinyl. Which out of the 2 for this project is probably a better choice. But for $12 it cost me sure I'll try. LOL.
But the CSR kinda gave me the impression I could go either way and I can't get the Classic Coat through the store. At least not yet.
So if it doesn't work out no big deal cause if I ever get the retractable cargo cover in the '00 I might want to paint the plastic mounting points black.
And that is really what the Color Coat is made for.

So also since the Agate LVP stuff from Amazon has had a chance to cure figured I would give it
a scratch test.

While I was impressed with how it laid down and looked that was done with my fingernail with
not a whole hell of a lot of pressure so........
But that could be me to. I did clean it really good with some wax and grease remover but did not
use any kind of adhesion type stuff.
 

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So I have come to the conclusion that the insets in my doors are a kinda blackish brown.
Not a perfect match either but that is to be expected. But I think I might be able to live with this.
My seat covers are black, the handle, the one you pull on to close the door, is black, the plate where the
handle to open the door is black, and the cover that the buttons for the window switch come through are also black.
So....
Just wonder if I would be better off with the Classic Coat instead the Color Coat.
Laid down nice and you can still see the details of the piece, all the little lines and whatnot, on it.
Let it cure for awhile and try the scratch test. LOL.
 

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So the next little project I want to deal with is my LED third eye.
Bought this from Ebay awhile back. I chose this one cause the silver reflective stuff in the other
ones they sold showed to much through the lens and I did not like it.

But what did bug me was the fake bulb with the little wires that you put in the where the regular bulb
goes to make it work.

So I scoffed another harness from the boneyard and am going to rewire it and get rid of the fake bulb.

Funny thing is I have a SpoilerLights Orvis Reproduction Spoiler for the Jeep. With a bigger LED third eye built in.
But cause my hatch is tweaked a bit it has been giving me grief getting it to not leak, through the hole where the,
third eye is, and stay attached.
So some year I will deal with that too and ditch the Ebay light. LOL.
 

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So I envisioned a problem with my plan for rewiring the lights.
The wire on the third eye is a super small gauge wire.
Thinking I am going to pull something out trying to handle this.
Well sure enough. So said screw it and rewired the circuit board.
Used some 16 gauge I had around but had to strip off a few wires to get it
through the pre-existing hole in the circuit board.
No idea how long this will hold up but.......
 

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