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So it still works after assembling everything. LOL.
Like I said see how long it lasts.
I still have the old third eye and a good harness so...
 

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I just want to repeat something that I say often.
When trying to source factory parts that are not available anymore perseverance pays off.

My most recent example. The window molding for the hatch of a '97 and up XJ.
I just found one to buy on Ebay. Says new and the pictures show it still in the package.
To be frank I will believe that I actually did find one to buy when I have it in my hot little hands. LOL.

A few years back you could get one through the dealership. I did when I swapped out all my glass for factory privacy glass.
They are not available anymore. To make matters worse there is no aftermarket support for this part best I can tell.
No problem with '96 and down though.

I thought it was weird when my glass guy, who did do the hatch glass for me (I did the rest) said I had to get the molding.
But I really did not think much of it at the time cause it was as simple as going to the dealership and ordering it.
Cost me about $32 out the door.

Then I decided I wanted a second one. Reason is that my hatch is tweaked and it is causing a problem with me installing the SpoilerLight
reproduction of the Orvis rear spoiler. Was really hoping to find a good black one to swap in. With the privacy/rear defogger glass in it.

I got what I believe to be a usable red one cheap. My thinking was gut it and give to my body guy to paint. No masking and a red hatch truly becomes a black one.
But that requires removing the rear window. Hence the glass molding.

Now being kinda retired I have the time for stalking Ebay, Craigslist, and the internet for things like this.
But hopefully it paid off.

The one I ordered on Ebay cost me $42 out the door with free shipping. There was a make offer button and I was considering offering him $30.
But as cheap as I am I figured now is not the time to be cheap. MLOL.
So I just quickly paid the asking price before somebody could snap it up from under me.

I do have some questions about this particular scenario though.

One is what does a auto glass company, Safelight for instance, do when they have to replace the hatch glass in an XJ?
I figured if push came to shove I would call to find out. I mean there must something they do. Not like nobody ever would not have to replace hatch glass.
And like I said it was like my glass guy knew something. Specifically telling me I had to get the molding myself.

Another thing is can hatch glass be removed and you still be able to save the molding so that it is reusable?
Thinking the answer to that is no but now I am in a position to at least try. Maybe.
This I won't try but one of the things that popped into my head was if you shattered the window maybe you could salvage the molding.
Of course there is no guarantee that I won't accidentally shatter it anyway trying. Which is one of the reasons I might not.
The glass in the red hatch is also privacy/rear defogger and I like having spare parts so.........
 

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So my 6 CD Changer started kicking in and out again. Which means I did not fix it.
So thinking that the wired remote was new when I put it in sometime back cause the one
in there started acting up thinking maybe the problem lies in the FM Modulator.
Cause the CD Changer in the enclosure in the back and the wired remote both get power from the modulator so....
And since I always have spare parts put in a brand new one.
For the time being everything is working as it should. Time will tell.
That is the old one.

So while I had everything apart thinking I should play with something I haven't mentioned yet.
It splices right in to the factory wiring but has a ground wire which you attach to the back of the radio
and you have to get power from somewhere for the wire that has a 5 amp inline fuse in it.
Thankfully I never use my little jump box for jumping the Jeep but use the piss out of it for a 12 volt source
when checking all sorts of things like this. Well good news it works and makes noise.
Bad news is the speaker needs to be refoamed.
But now that I am pretty sure everything works will spend the $20 for the kit to refoam it.
 

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So I got curious wondering how you take off the handle and that plate attached to the back seat that lets you release it from the latch to fold forward. Pretty easy it turns out.
There is a slotted spring pin, took me 10 minutes on the internet to figure out what that is called (LOL), that secures the plastic handle to the release for the back seat.
Just take a screwdriver and stick it where the drill bit is and pry it out. At at that point you can grab it with pliers to pull it all the way out.
The hook that comes through the circle on the plastic plate can be worked up and over that hook once you do that.

So I am not sure if I am going to call this finished but......
My OCD is kicking in and I might want to tweak it some more. MLOL.

Now I had to add an additional washer to the passenger side to the one on the right cause the posts from the headrest were hitting that bar.
Raised it up just enough to clear. Was thinking about cutting them down but did not really want to.
This one I did last week if you recall.

But for some reason I had to add a third washer on the driver's side one for the head rest posts to clear the bar.

I used allen head button bolts so it is not protruding so much through the seat cover in the back like a bolt would.
I also put a washer under the head of the button bolt but am thinking I might take it out so it is that much more flush.
Also still wish the headrests were sitting a little lower.
But between the CoverKing headrest covers and the upper back seat cover it will hide that small gap.

Here is where the rubber meets the road though sort of speak.
Holes have to be made in the seat cover.
The seat cover was not cheap and this is the part that really scares me.
All this other stuff is made from spare parts I have accumulated. If I were to bail on the whole idea no big deal.
But putting holes in the seat cover is a whole different story.
My buddies daughter sews so thinking I am going to let her handle that part.
 

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Damn! Very nice work Bro, But may I suggest some decaf! 👍
 

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So I got the rear hatch window molding today and it is what it was supposed to be.
New but the package had been opened. It will not lie flat but that is to be expected.
Seeing how it it rolled up in a bag. Not like my Mopar front one came.
Lying flat attached to a big piece of cardboard. Which was kinda funny when I went to pick it up.
Just figured it would also be rolled up in a bag like the rear.
Anyway it does look like the rear hatch molding is set up like the front. There is a channel that the glass goes in.
I always assumed they put the molding around the glass, gunk the channel on the Jeep, and place the glass and
molding in all in one shot.
So thinking it not lying flat is not a big deal. Let it soften up in the sun, gently hit it with a heat gun when using it, etc.
I have all the old glass from when I swapped over to privacy glass awhile back. Been meaning to pull of those turned
purple tints off all the glass that the PO put on and see if I could get a couple bucks for the glass.
Thinking maybe put the molding on the hatch glass, let it sit, and see if it conforms back to the shape it should be.
 

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I wheeled it all week, and had some damage. However, nothing serious, and all with in the realm of easily replaced or sealed up.

227797


227798
 

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Awesome!
 

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If a pressurized tank of warm gasoline tank due to the lack of a tail pipe is character, then yes... mucho character.

I'd never seen something like that. The day the tail pipe came off, I started to smell gas intermittently. Then over seven hours on the way home from Sedona two days later, I got crappy mileage, and the gas tank burped a long forceful burp when I opened the gas cap to fill it.

I have some new transmission line leaks, and I am praying that the oil pan stayed intact. I have been losing about 2 quarts over five hundred miles or so. I'm gonna look into whether or not lube locker makes a trans pan gasket.

I noticed that the two axles were weeping gear oil out the shafts. There isn't a lot of oil coming out, but enough to cause some concern. The front with the Detroit Tru-Trac, I can reason to believe that the OEM recommended amount of oil, could be excessive. The rear leaked out both axle shaft seals, and I am not 100% sure why. The shafts have newer seals, and I'm not sure why some oil has been weeping out. I have to check the oil levels in the coming days.

I'm also starting to think about new shocks. I have bad sleeve hardware and rubber on the rear driver's side(can't seem to find replacement kits for these RE shocks), and the front passenger has lost all ability. I'm thinking Bilstein's but not 100% sure yet. I know a few of you love your Deutchtech's.

Outside of these little issues, she ran well, and the new gears are much quieter now. She hauls a decent load really well at 65-70 mph. I still have some pinion noise up front, and in the rear. The rear is only in a small area where I let off the gas slightly, and have about 40-50% load on it. If I let off completely: no noise.

I'll be adding to the build thread a bunch over the next couple of days.
 

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Your exhaust more that likely heated up your tank. I never thought of that, :oops: if the pressure in the tank kept the fuel return from working properly, I can see how it might affect your mpg. Did the engine seem like it was heat soaked, or flooded?
Given the amount of work and how long you spent doing it, I would expect a drip or leak here and there. That's why we call them shake down runs. So we can see what oils are running down. I would check bolt torque on the pans, may just be a couple bolts need retorqued. The rear axle seals shouldn't be leaking. Do the axles have grooves worn in them? You may have to dig deeper into those. Make sure your axle vents are not plugged up. I have seen frickin mud wasp fill the tube with mud. Sneaky little bastards.
I am getting ready to buy new shocks, I need longer ones since I went up another inch. Doeschtech is my first choice. Primarily because they have built in bumpstops.
Thanks for the update. All in all. I'd say it was a success.
 

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So today I figured cause it was going to rain and haven't really done anything since I went back to work would do something concerning the rear seat headrest mod on the porch.
Decided since the front seats are Agate would run a Agate rear seat. Picked the worse back and bottom to use out of the 2 sets I have.
Going clean it up the best I can today and that is it.
But one thing I am going to try is the painting the carpet on the back of the upper part with that SEM Color Coat I tried out on the door inset.
It is made for carpet. Going to get covered with the seat cover eventually so figured lets give it a shot.
But not today cause I want to try on a less humid day.
 

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So since I am running Agate heated seats under the seat covers I decided to use an Agate seat for the back too.
I picked out the worst upper and bottom from the 2 sets I have. One cause I have to cut holes in the upper for the headrest mod.
They are going to be under seat covers anyway so.......
And two cause if I can ever find any Camel heated seats, the color that should be in my '00, I will sell the Agate ones.
Figure sell the nicer back seat with the fronts.

Speaking of which if anybody has any Camel, found in '99 to '01, heated leather seats for sale in really good shape contact me.

So I have never had a problem taking the cover off the upper part until now. The zippers were corroded and frozen.
There are 3. One across the bottom and ones on each side. The bottom I freed up. One side I freed up after soaking it in Evapo-Rust.
The other side I could not get to unzip to save my life. But I was able to get the seat cover off with just unzipping the two.

On another note best I can tell replacing the FM Modulator stopped my 6 CD Changer from kicking in and out like it was so.....
 

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Better shut the door, you are letting flies in!
LOL.


So I decided to turn my attention to the back seat bottom.
Figure clean it up best I can. Going to get rid of some rust first.
Wired brushed it and going to let is soak in some Evapo-Rust. Using stuff that I have already used.
Depending on how clean it comes out will either spray it real quick with some spray paint or maybe
hit is with some of that rust converter crap.
The front heated seats that came with this rear seat were in pretty good shape.
Never have I seen a back seat trashed this bad and look worse then the front seats. LOL.
 

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All set to get new tires mounted tomorrow

Spent a few days polishing up these old wheels I bought, they were really corroded but cleaned up ok
 

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So I let that piece on the seat soak in the Evapo-Rust for about 24 hours.
And this is already used stuff. You can keep reusing it till it gets black.
I did wire brush it a couple times yesterday after it had been soaking for a bit.
Imagine if I used fresh stuff. Probably would have looked like that in less then half the time.
Going to do the other side now but it is no where near as bad as this side was.
 

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New tires and wheels are finally on! Man it’s a been a long time coming. He’s 21 years old now and all growed up! Kinda brings a tear to my eye

At $148 each I couldn’t pass on these Cooper Evolutions. No, they aren’t as strong as the Discoverer series, and they will probably wear quickly, but hey that makes me the perfect target market - I don’t expect to beat on them very hard or put many miles on them to begin with, so they will suit me just fine for my first MT tire.
 

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Awe yeah buddy! Veddy nice!
I see how stuffed the rear is, how is the front? I have the same size tire and the front rubs when stuffed on turns.
 
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