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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 92 XJ did the conversion as described by just about everyone pretty simple really. All parts came from a donor 96 Grand Cherokee. Only issue was the brake line on my 92 to both calipers was jammed on there hard. Penetrating fluid didn't do it so twisted em pretty bad, replaced bad ends with a ferrel setup no prob no leaks. so my real issue now is that the brake light is on and the brake pedal will not fully pump up. You can get it to pump up and the light goes off but after you release the pedal it falls off again. No real pressure at the back brakes, good fluid flow just no pressure, power bleed them, hand bleed them still no pressure, probably replaced the entire fluid content three times. Had a new master cylinder for the 92 on hand so replaced no change, pv from the Grand was installed no change. Jacked up\the rear and spun em by hand and it will stop just not crisp like it should. Seen a few write ups here but no real answers were given.
was considering just redoing the back brake lines, but not sure if that is the issue.

So what say you guru's any help or someone have the same issue, don't like to give up and switch back so need to find out why.

Thanks ahead of time and sorry to rehash this.

Rmill
 

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When you say a ferrel fitting, are you referring to a compression fitting? You don't have a kink in the lines? Are the pads and rotors new? There should be a slight bias in the brake pressure front to rear. Did you bench bleed the MC? Have you tried standing hard on the pedal to make sure full pressure is getting to the rear? Sorry about the questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes sry i meant compression fitting couldn't think of the correct word atm. I did not replace the pads or rotors it looked like the donor just had them done prior to its untimely death. yes i did bench bleed the MC in fact bled it more in place just in case and yes made sure the pedal went all the way down, in fact when bleeding the front the pedal dropped but when bleeding the back the pedal did not move at all no matter how long i left the bleeder open. Have done lots of brakes and this one has me mifed. I was able to move the caliper pistons easily so the are not stuck.
 

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How did the rubber caliper hoses look? They aren't dry rotted or cracked are they? Here is the writeup when I did mine. And i Shall Call Her........ I used the same PV until I went to 33's then I swapped it with the ZJ internals. I think I need to add a little more to the rear. Especially now that I am on 35's
FWIW, I also put a block of wood under the pedal when I'm bleeding so it doesn't go all the way to the floor. The reason is, that the plunger that goes into the MC can get rusty over time because it never get pushed in all the way. As soon as the pedal hits the floor, the rusty rod gets pushed through a seal and it damages the seal. Causing a leak and letting air into the system.
Are your bleeders higher than the banjo fitting for the brake line? I have to ask because I have seen people install the calipers upside down.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK thanks some items to check tomorrow. pretty sure i'm ok but will check just in case. I have read you write previosly. not 100 percent on the hoses but looks like they may come off and prolly just replace them to be sure not too expensive.
 

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OK, so checked bleeders all is installed correctly. Not comfortable with the compression fitting so will replace both lines this weekend. just dont understand why the MC will not build and hold pressure. Gonna hit it hard this weekend if weather allows. Thanks for the input if i can figure it out will post.
 

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not building pressure usually means air. did you bleed the front? Did you try using a clear hose on the bleeder submerged in a clear plastic bottle. Have someone pump the brakes slowly and watch for bubbles?
 
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