Jeep Cherokee Talk banner

1301 - 1320 of 1321 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,302
Im thinking this weekend should be where I start gutting the interior in prep for a full blown rust removal mission. Welding in the rockers will be a heck of a lot easier with nothing to burn inside as well. I hate to take something driveable and do this, but its now or never...at least thats what Im telling myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,303 (Edited)
^^ I lied. Thought maybe I had last minute plans where I wanted the Jeep, but those keep falling through. I'm kinda in a dark place today, so f*** people and friends and the government and everything d****t. Tonight I'm going to start tearing the Jeep apart, but I need it tomorrow to meet a guy who wants to buy a parts washer I have so I can't go full animal on it just yet. I managed to pull my head outta my ass long enough to print off the rocker replacement instructions from Hooligan since Ares doesn't have any.

Since Im ranting, Im trying to talk myself into swearing off social media for a bit, but Im not sure what will occupy my short attention span in the meantime. Its easy to say Im going to buckle down and get to work, but work is kinda boring right now, and I can't work in the garage until I get home, so we'll see how that goes........................ Tuesdays man, they'll getchya when you aren't looking.

Edited post: Still going with the "F em all" policy, but there's no reason I can't be happy about it instead of pissed/depressed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,305
Moving on.......progress has begun. A mind-numbing 3 day weekend rust removal marathon. Ill have to go back and add pics fom my phone, but I gutted the interior, cut out nearly all of the passenger floorboard, and removed the entire strip of floor across where the rear mounts of the front seat go. New metal has been cut and tacked in place. Plenty of weld-thru primer used and some POR15 where I could get it. Also had to patch up the underlying brackets for the mounts there, and another real small spot farther forward. Tonight I need to finish welding in the new piece and move forward to the inner piece of the rocker. Its rotted real bad and I messed it up pretty good chiseling out the floorpan. It will get cut out and a new piece 3" tall welded in. This is important because it is the main structure that the c-channels and thus the 2x6 rockers are welded to. Also, the bottom of this piece and the pinch seam will get cut out. My jeep will be pinch-seam free when Im done with the rockers! And no, there are no structural concerns due to the 2x6 being 3/16 wall and much stronger/stiffer than the sheetmetal rockers where a pinch seam is needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,306
Pics
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,448 Posts
You got off easy. I glued a couple small panels in mine. I coated the entire unibody on the inside with a POR 15 wannabe. Bought the 3' hose adapter that has a 360° nozzle and spray fluid film on afterwards. Floors and stiffeners are a sucky job that I never want t repeat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,308
Stiffeners are needed the more I look at the unibody. But to hell with it, thats something I can do later this winter. Rockers and floors first.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,448 Posts
I did my stiffeners first, cause if I coated the inside of the unibody then welded the stiffeners, it would burn off everything on the inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,310
Yep, that makes sense and I agree with you, but I ain't doing it. I'm on a deadline for the jeep show and I am not stopping to order and do stiffeners now. The reality is that only 24" of channel is even open enough to get POR15 into. So will it really matter? probably not. And the drivers side is still sealed up so it is what it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,311
Rear patch welded in (I finished it after I took the pic) Tonight I need to grind some of that off. I hate sheetmetal, but Im trying. Everytime I get close to dialed in, it goes into fits. Anyhow, progress is being made. Spent a bunch of time with a light checking for holes I missed. Got it welded solid and brushed clean. I need to decide how I want to do the floorpan for the big section. I like a one-piece design but its a real bitch to hammer one out manually. Very time consuming. And I have a 3" tall side piece thats real important and I don't know if I want to incorporate that into the pan or keep it separate.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,448 Posts
I used automotive seam sealer on all my floor plan welds. May be a effort in futility, but it gave me peace of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,313
Yep, I did last time and I plan to hit it with that after fully welding everything. (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,314
Update:
I am not going to make my deadline of having the jeep drivable with floors patched and rockers installed before the jeep show this weekend. Too many issues, number 1 being the massive hole in my unibody I opened up. Not easily patched, and Im thinking Im going to have to drop the crossmember to do it right. This was the last straw so stiffeners are being ordered.

Parts on the way: IronRockOffroad front and center stiffener sections.
Parts to order later this fall: Dirtbound rear stiffeners and spring plates for bumpstops

Progess on the original goal:
-piece cut and welded into place on the inside of the rocker where the floorpan welds to it, and where the C-channel will get welded to accept the 2x6 rocker
-rear patches fully welded into place and ground down.

Left to do on this now Mega-Marathon:
-patch holes in unibody
-coat everything accordingly
-trim up the floorpan opening and remove the last bits of rot around the edges where needed
-hand form and weld floorpan into place
-probably will have a second patch to add onto that
-cut out the rockers and trim fender/flare as needed
-clean off the unibody and prep for welding
-install stiffener center sections
-install stiffener front sections
-coat entire floor in POR15 and possibly Monstaliner as well
Later on this winter...
-buy and install DirtBound rear stiffeners
-buy and install DirtBound bumpstop springplates
-buy and install extended rear bumpstops
-buy and install RE 4deg spring shims
-build rear rollover hoop with harness mounts

Thats what Im planning on lumping into this round but there are plans for a second phase of this as well. We'll see how the wallet feels after that.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,448 Posts
Man, do those images bring back some flashbacks! I drilled new drain holes in my front and rear floors. I used hydraulic fitting dust caps for plugs.
I used 3/8" plate on top of my rear leafs for a bump stop, then used an extended bump on the frame. I drilled and tapped the frame stiffeners to mount the bumpstops. I have stuffed those 35's and haven't rubbed.
You got some work to do, just keep at it. I have no doubt it will get finished and it will be right!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,316
I got the unibody supported with jackstands and I removed the transmission crossmember and got it supported too.
I had to cut the transmission mount in half to drop the crossmember. Im surpised I got all 4 bolts out of the unibody honestly. The other 4 nuts on the studs in the trans mount either snapped off or rounded off. So I need a new mount.

Now the real question is how far do I want to go down the rabbit hole? The trans mount is out, I need to reseal the tcase and the trans has 200,000miles on it. Do I want to rebuild? Do I want to even touch it? Do I want to remove it from the jeep so I can work on the unibody and floors unimpaired (welding, grinding, degreasing and painting/recoating)? Do I want to replace the torque converter? Keep in mind I am installing a RADesigns shifter. I think the tcase is a little sloppy so a beefier chain setup wouldnt be a bad thing, esp since im opening it up to reseal it. After all that, do I want to put the stock crossmember back? Or do I want to beef is up (no good way to really do that)? Or do I want to replace it with a $250 mount/skid from StinkyFab or somewhere else?

My head is spinning and my wallet is hiding. What say you?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,642 Posts
Now the real question is how far do I want to go down the rabbit hole? The trans mount is out, I need to reseal the tcase and the trans has 200,000miles on it. Do I want to rebuild? Do I want to even touch it?
I'm assuming it's an AW4, and as such: if it ain't broke: don't fix it. Those transmissions are beefy. I wish I had one.

Do I want to remove it from the jeep so I can work on the unibody and floors unimpaired (welding, grinding, degreasing and painting/recoating)? Do I want to replace the torque converter? Keep in mind I am installing a RADesigns shifter.
Unless it's really a PITA to work around: I'd leave it in there. You'll be able to manuever it with a floor jack and slightly loosened motor mounts if you need to to get access to the new shifter and linkage. The only reason I might consider thre torque converter is if it had been displaying problems.

I think the tcase is a little sloppy so a beefier chain setup wouldnt be a bad thing, esp since im opening it up to reseal it.
Well if your already in there.....

After all that, do I want to put the stock crossmember back? Or do I want to beef is up (no good way to really do that)? Or do I want to replace it with a $250 mount/skid from StinkyFab or somewhere else?
It sounds like the only real issue you have here are some studs and the mount needing to be replaced. Unless there is a ton of cancer growing on there, I'd stick with it or fab your own. You have the tools and the talent. It's just about winter time and the wheeling gets more scarce.

My head is spinning and my wallet is hiding. What say you?
What t the hell do I know: Just empty every pocket! Invest in several cases of Grain Belt while your at it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: XJSuperman

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,318
What t the hell do I know: Just empty every pocket! Invest in several cases of Grain Belt while your at it.
Fun fact, I recently won 3 cases of Grainbelt in a contest they are doing!

Yes, its an AW4, and the RADesigns shifter is an electronic thing, so just switches and wiring. Lots of wiring.
You're suggestions make sense. You may have just talked me off a ledge on the transmission. Im still on a smaller, lower ledge for the tcase though. Ive got a couple local guys who swear by the 2lo conversions. Im already planning on adding the Boostwerks tcase shift linkage, but I am thinking about how it seems a bit sloppy, heavy clunking when shifting reverse/forward and viceversa. When I had the diff open and was playing with it, it seemed like the tcase had slop, not so much the diff. So the wide-chain setup would be worth it maybe.

Yes I could build a crossmember, but do I want to spend a week (design, cutting, building, mockups, painting, etc) when I can use that time to do other stuff, or do the other options (leave it alone or buy one). There's too much oil in it for cancer to grow. Guess I'll wait on that a bit. I do want to change my tcase skid setup. Build or buy factors in here again, but only because its dependent on the crossmember I use.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,642 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,033 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,320
...
 

Attachments

1301 - 1320 of 1321 Posts
Top