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One of my biggest reasons for wanting to chop from the A-pillar back is because when I'm in the rig with a helmet on (during the occasional comp) the roof line is so low that the helmet constantly hits the roof, and it's uncomfortable.

My plans is to also build the entire cage 2-3 inches taller than necessary so that if/when this XJ is toast, I can cut the cage off at the rock sliders, and move it over to another XJ.

that is a smart move building it higher, it may look a little funny but very practical.

also i hear you on the helmet thing. sitting in mine there is no room for my big melon with a helmet on.
 
why not just drop your seat down an inch or inch and a half
 
i thought about that and i may later. but right now i'm using tj seat brackets for my suspension seats and they are on the floor right now.

in the future i may try to make another bracket for the seats. but i really like how high i sit now. i can see every corner of the jeep.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
i thought about that and i may later. but right now i'm using tj seat brackets for my suspension seats and they are on the floor right now.

in the future i may try to make another bracket for the seats. but i really like how high i sit now. i can see every corner of the jeep.
Nice chop EZ... do you have a build thread anywhere that I could reference?

why not just drop your seat down an inch or inch and a half
I was thinking about that, but anyway I approach it, my seat will usually be at the same height. I'm also a bit on the short side (5'6") so I like to sit up a bit higher so I can get a better view of the trail/course.

Eventually, I want to build the seats into the cage by running tube from slider to slider up and over the trans tunnel, which would still cause the seat mounts to be located in a similar, if not higher position than they already are. This setup would also give me the tube necessary on that area of the tunnel to complete the center console and dash frame. The issue is that I am not sure of what tcase I will run down the road or where my shifters will be located.

Long-term plans are a tcase with a 4:1 (either NP241OR or Dana 300 w/ 4:1), cutting brakes, and possibly a trans with a manual valve body, which would involve me relocating the shift for that too.

I don't want to be reinventing the wheel in a year or two as I pile on more mods. I want to be able to work with what is there just to minimize the additional cost and time investments that will be necessary.

This whole build has snowballed from a chop and cage to potentially new axles, new tcase, new seats. I'm trying to prioritize because I have a set budget, and I really cannot exceed it.

All of the feedback I've gotten so far is very helpful, so thanks. I look forward to more brainstorming.
 
If I chop from the A-pillar back I'd weld a this guage piece of sheet over the passenger compartment to block any rain off. I don't wheel in winter weather much, if at all, and even being just doorless I still get soaked on the trail (and I still have a roof). As for the sun, the thin sheet will suffice to keep some shade.

I've been considering your suggestion of welding a small piece of the roof to the cage too, definitely a viable idea.

I've seen Liquid's XJ in person several times, and it's very nciely done. It does feel a bit cramped inside, and that is what I'm trying to get away from.



What do you mean it's not?


One of my biggest reasons for wanting to chop from the A-pillar back is because when I'm in the rig with a helmet on (during the occasional comp) the roof line is so low that the helmet constantly hits the roof, and it's uncomfortable.

My plans is to also build the entire cage 2-3 inches taller than necessary so that if/when this XJ is toast, I can cut the cage off at the rock sliders, and move it over to another XJ.
i posted it on my facebook. and there was 3 or 4 people sayin that it wasnt. i know an xj when i see one. heck everyone of thats been messin with one of these knows it. i can see people just startin out not to sure about it. but my cuzz that has a pretty nice 2001 xj. i'll post a pic of it. not to sound rude towards other. not on here. but when you know the truth and they just keep pushin the zj into the convo. they all thought it was a zj. :brickwall::brickwall::brickwall:
 
In terms of potential road blocks you may encounter, what are the state laws for you governing windshield application? I know here in WA you can roll with no windshield (or folded down for older Wrangler, M715, etc) but you must have certified eye protection at all times.

Personally I'd keep the A-pillars and stock glass, if anything it'll make replacements easier and cheaper vice plexi.

Personally one of my favorite chopped rigs features stock A-pillars and glass, but everything else (including the hard roof) is gone. Dude made a sick cage and soft top for it...
Chopped XJ Rear 3 link and Coils - Page 6 - Pirate4x4.Com

On the plus side, most states regulate the difference between a truck and car/wagon by whether or not the cargo area is open-air. So by chopping yours up, you could possibly fall into truck registration territory and thus be free of all the stupid height limitations afforded cars :)
That's Andy Burns' rig, he's over on SIS.
 
200xj
here's the link to my build thread over on naxja
my build thread
i was thinking of doing the same thing to mine in time as far as the seat mounting goes and mounting the seats to the cage.

what i had planned was to cut out part of the trans tunnel and when i bend the tube make it a little bigger, then just skin the tube with some 14ga or something. but i'd figure out which tcase you want first.
 
Dave- Project Spartan. /thread :thumbsup:
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
hey 2000xj I have been trying to find the build for you and i FINALLY found it I thought you might like it

Removable Top XJ Project (Pics) - Pirate4x4.Com
I love that build, but it's just not the route I"m going to take with this. If I was going to have a regularly driven XJ, plus the time, resources, and storage (for the top when removed) then I'd try to do something like that.

Dave- Project Spartan. /thread :thumbsup:
Nice post... I've been following that thread since day 1, and I barely cruise on JF.com anymore. Definitely liking the way he has the A- and B-pillars + windshield. I'm really having a hard time deciding what to do. Chances are I'll chop everything.
 
Nice post... I've been following that thread since day 1, and I barely cruise on JF.com anymore. Definitely liking the way he has the A- and B-pillars + windshield. I'm really having a hard time deciding what to do. Chances are I'll chop everything.
Hop on SIS and ask Will about it, man. I'm sure he'll be happy to let you in on everything. I might wait till after the KOH stuff though, he's pretty hectic right now getting all set to go out there and film.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Hop on SIS and ask Will about it, man. I'm sure he'll be happy to let you in on everything. I might wait till after the KOH stuff though, he's pretty hectic right now getting all set to go out there and film.
Yea, Will's a good guy. I can't imagine the craziness right now. I'd love to get out to KOH next year. This year wasn't possible, I'm sure you understand why. My close friend and his wife are heading out, I'm jealous :D

What it boils down to is that I just need to start cutting, so that I"m forced into making progress instead of sitting here everyday and wondering what the hell I should be doing.
 
Looks like you're headed in the right direction and the only thing I'll add to is the need for frame stiffeners in the front. Mine is chopped and although I have frame stiffeners and a (almost complete) full cage I still get some enough twist/pull that the body is beginning to kink in the middle of the b pillar. The red arrow in the pic points it out. Essentially my cage ends at the yellow line and without the roof in place the weight of the engine/front end pulls on the b-pillar and kinks it right there.

I have plans to tie the main cage into the front bumper and add some front uni-rail supports to prevent this from happening further.
 

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Discussion starter · #37 ·
So this idea and desire is not dead... I'm just taking a completely different approach. I'm going to start from scratch with a "new" and "fresh" XJ. My framerails and body are hammered, and ever since reading Chili's posts and looking through his build thread, I think I want to go the route of a 2 door XJ. I'm open to a 4 door, but only if it's too good a deal to pass up.

I'm not saying I want a beauty queen of a rig, but it's time for a fresh start so I can do it right. I figure this way I can also have a wheelable rig while I build something.
 
Sorry to hear that it won't work out. I was looking forward to seeing your build. Guess we'll just have to wait until you find your new XJ. Is yours still drivable with all the stuff you sold off it of?
 
there was a 2 door 5spd for sale on naxja in the north atlantic chapter. i think it was near maryland. asking 2800 i think.

fresh is always better than rebuilding. that's why i did most of the major work on mine, before i started wheeling it
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Sorry to hear that it won't work out. I was looking forward to seeing your build. Guess we'll just have to wait until you find your new XJ. Is yours still drivable with all the stuff you sold off it of?
Don't be sorry, it'll just be a better and easier platform to start from. Mine is still 100% wheelable, just lighter :rofl:. Once my other one is built, I may or may not hang on to this one just for light trail duty. It doesn't cost me anything since it's been paid off for years, and insurance on it is a joke so I'll weigh my options. Ideally I'd probably pull the motor/trans/tcase out of it and drop it into whatever XJ I buy since this drivetrain is only 100k miles old and most of the ones in the $1000 or less range have close to 200k miles.

there was a 2 door 5spd for sale on naxja in the north atlantic chapter. i think it was near maryland. asking 2800 i think.

fresh is always better than rebuilding. that's why i did most of the major work on mine, before i started wheeling it
Thanks for looking out. $2800 is way out of my budget. I'm looking to spend no more than $1000, $1500 MAX on a "donor". I don't need it to have a good drivetrain, just more focused on it having the least amount of rust as possible. I don't want to spend my time doing body repairs, I just want to build it.
 
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